Cartagena, Colombia: A Dreamy Caribbean Getaway

Sway to the energetic beat of Cartagena as you wander picturesque avenues bursting with colorful façades, try fresh ceviche with tropical flavors, and relax on white sand beaches overlooking the turquoise water of the Caribbean Sea. This Colombian port city on the northern coast of South America will captivate your spirit with its diverse culture, bold murals, trendy handicrafts, African-influenced rhythms, and charming atmosphere.

Brad and I stayed in Cartagena for one month to soak up the sun, visit historic attractions, go scuba diving, and sip creative cocktails. When the humidity became too much to handle, we took a day trip to the nearby Islas del Rosario to cool off and enjoy the island vibes at a beach club. Below I cover plenty of unforgettable sights, landmarks, and restaurants to help you plan a laid-back itinerary!

Centro Histórico

Founded by Spanish settlers in 1533, Cartagena was a strategic port and colony along the Caribbean Sea. Spain used the city to export its vast quantities of silver mined from Potosí, Bolivia. Under the Asiento de Negros contract, foreign merchants imported African slaves to ease the burden on indigenous laborers in the Americas. As wealth in the region increased, fortifications were constructed to defend the city against pirate attacks and raids.

The thick stone walls, ramps, and turrets of Las Murallas still enclose the well-preserved Centro Histórico, the heart of Cartagena. Be sure to check out the impressive views and catch a glowing sunset on the northwest portions. Step back in time as you stroll along a maze of cobblestone streets flanked by stunning colonial architecture. Pops of intense color, painted tiles, and brass door knockers decorate countless façades. Wrought-iron lamps and shallow wooden balconies covered in bountiful bougainvilleas add to the magical ambience.

Plazas with exquisite Catholic churches, dramatic statues, and friendly vendors invite locals and tourists to mingle. Mornings are slow and quiet, but offer a chance to savor notes of Colombian coffee before the midday heat. Keep cool by shopping in the air-conditioned boutiques, drinking classic cocktails, or taking refreshing dips in your hotel pool. Cartagena comes alive at night with live music, street performers, romantic carriage rides, and appetizing smells of fried arepas (flat corn cakes with various fillings).

Photographers will especially fall in love with the quirky details and candid opportunities. For iconic shots, head to Calle Cochera del Hobo for a pretty stretch of homes and Calle de Don Sancho to capture the pastel bell tower of Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría. Brad and I had a blast discovering treasured landmarks, such as the La Gorda Gertrudis statue by Colombian artist Fernando Botero. His signature style is all about vivacious curves. According to legend, you’ll be lucky in love if you touch her booty!

Plazas are the best places to go people-watching, buy souvenirs, or grab tasty snacks including fresh fruit and empanadas. I highly recommend stopping by Plaza de Santo Domingo, Plaza de Bolívar, Plaza de San Pedro Claver, and Plaza de San Diego. Each one has its own vibe with benches, al fresco cafés, pockets of shade, museums, and churches. The Museo del Oro Zenú (free admission) is worth a look for its small collection of pre-Columbian gold artifacts, ceramics, and filigree jewelry. Opening hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 9:00 AM-5:00 PM, and Sunday, 9:00 AM-2:00 PM.

Save room in your suitcase because Colombian artisans know how to create one-of-a-kind keepsakes! Makeshift tables full of paintings, rattan earrings, head wraps with bold prints, woven Wayuu bags, knickknacks, and sombreros vueltiaos (traditional braided hats) line the popular sidewalks. Las Bóvedas, a former 18th Century dungeon, is a yellow colonnaded marketplace overflowing with affordable goods. Luxury boutiques and art galleries offer specialty items. Add a bit of pizazz to your wardrobe with a funky pair of sandals, flowy dress, or eye-catching handbag.

Exit the Centro Histórico through the Monumento Torre del Reloj to cross over into Parque Centenario. The lush park is a great place to go birdwatching and spot lazy iguanas in the treetops. Troops of active Cotton-top Tamarins, usually with tiny babies on their backs, tend to hang around the outskirts. If you want to find sloths, head to Parque Espíritu del Manglar (free admission) during the day. Opening hours are Wednesday-Friday, 10:00 AM-8:00 PM, and Saturday-Sunday, 2:00-8:00 PM.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas

One of the star attractions in Cartagena is the massive San Felipe de Barajas Fortress on top of San Lázaro hill. Completed in the 18th Century, the military location provided unobstructed panoramic views of the surrounding land and waterways. In 1697, a French fleet led by Baron de Pointis captured the fortress. However, Spanish soldiers were successfully able to defend it against British troops during the War of Jenkins' Ear in 1741.

The claustrophobic tunnels, bunkers, steep staircases, bronze cannons, and turrets are neat to explore. Bilingual guides are available for hire next to the main entrance if you want to learn more about the architecture and history. Arrive as early as possible to avoid the sweltering sun and bring plenty of water. Opening hours are every day, 7:00 AM-6:00 PM, and tickets cost $9 USD per person.

Getsemaní

The soul of Cartagena is undoubtedly the bohemian neighborhood of Getsemaní, located just south of the Centro Histórico. Countless renovations over the years have turned the gritty area into a safe hotspot for travelers to experience Colombian culture. Crumbling walls and narrow alleyways now feature striking murals of beautiful Colombians, vibrant canvas paintings, and eclectic garlands. Getsemaní is a wonderful open-air gallery!

Gather around Plaza de la Trinidad for a quick bite or cold beer before exploring the popular streets of Calle Tripita y Media, Calle de San Juan, Calle de las Sombrillas, Calle de la Sierpe, and Callejón Ancho. Palenqueras, the pride of Cartagena, are iconic women who sell produce and typically wear dresses in hues of yellow, blue, and red. Their ancestors were African slaves who escaped and established the free settlement of San Basilio de Palenque. Be sure to ask permission before taking a photograph and expect to give a cash tip.

Restaurants

Colombian cuisine is a melting pot of flavors, influences, spices, and tropical ingredients. Cartagena is a prime location to experience hearty local specialties such as mouthwatering ceviche, fried snacks, and fresh seafood. Picking a restaurant or bar can be a tad overwhelming with the amount of delectable options, so just go with your gut when in doubt. Below are my top recommendations for scrumptious meals, sweet treats, and cocktails.

• Lunch - Pull up a chair at one of the marble bistro tables at Época Café to indulge in the chicken chilaquiles with mild salsa, eggs, and pickled red onions. Wash it down with a healthy green goddess juice. The delicate fish and shrimp soup at La Cocina de Pepina is simply legendary. You'll be hooked after one spoonful! The grilled catch of the day with side salad, coconut rice, and patacones (fried plantains) was also fantastic. The creamy coconut shrimp rice skillet and citrus ceviche with avocado at Buena Vida Marisquería impressed our taste buds.

• Dessert - One of our favorite ways to cool off in the Centro Histórico was savoring generous scoops of homemade gelato at Gelateria Tramonti. My go-to flavors were the pistachio and salted caramel. Finding a piece of moist cake was surprisingly difficult in Cartagena. Fortunately, I satisfied my craving with the tangy red velvet cake at Fruto Bendito Café, which was the right size until Brad ate half!

• Dinner - Manglar is a chic date night restaurant with exceptional dishes and attentive service. The cocktails, balanced ceviche, tender filet mignon with spicy butter, cheesy mashed potatoes, and shrimp rice with sweet tomato confit blew us away. Save room for the fluffy cheesecake with dollops of thick dulce de leche! Check out Uma Cantina Peruana if you're in the mood for Peruvian classics with a twist. Our gorgeous plates of chipotle shrimp ceviche, causa acevichada (puréed potatoes topped with ceviche), and oriental tuna were practically licked clean.

• Cocktails - Toast your trip with an afternoon or evening concoction at one of the many rooftop bars and lounges. Rest your feet at Montesacro Resto Bar and sip a refreshing grapefruit mojito with white rum on the quaint balcony. The comfortable chairs and glowing candles at El Coro Lounge Bar provided the perfect backdrop for us to drink our La Fantastica and Coro Mule cocktails. Cheers!

Islas del Rosario

Breathe in salty air and get a revitalizing dose of Vitamin D at one of the 27 islands that make up this breathtaking archipelago southwest of Cartagena. Hotels are available, but most tourists spend a day relaxing at a beach club, sailing on a catamaran, or scuba diving along the coral reefs. Round-trip boat rides to reach the Islas del Rosario depart at the Muelle de la Bodeguita port. A tax of $8.50 USD is required per person. Each way takes approximately 45 minutes depending on the water conditions.

Brad and I spent two separate days around the islands. We booked a cabana at the Bora Bora beach club on Isla Grande, which included a welcome drink and delicious lunch for $92 USD per person. The chill music, clean swimming area, friendly service, and strong cocktails melted our worries away! Descending into the Caribbean Sea on a scuba diving excursion with Diving Planet to see colorful fish was equally worthwhile. Our two dives with transportation, lunch, and equipment were $163 USD per person.

In a (Coco) Nut Shell

Cartagena provides a delightful jolt to the senses with its splash of colors, bustling nightlife, complex history, and easy access to the Caribbean Sea. The city inspires travelers to connect to the past while embracing the essence of modern Colombian culture. You can practice the art of doing nothing amidst the colonial architecture and green parks or partake in the magnetic revelry of the spacious plazas and unique cocktail bars. This coastal paradise is a tropical escape unlike any other with the right balance of relaxation and fun!