Nicaragua: A Dance of Colonial Cities and Volcanoes

The elusive country of Nicaragua was teetering on the chopping block when Brad and I decided to backpack Central America. Concerns of safety and political instability swirled in our heads as we inched closer to the decision whether or not to make the border crossing. Fortunately, speaking to fellow travelers eased our doubts which led to a journey full of surprises.

As we loaded body-to-body into our shared shuttle like a can of sardines, Brad and I looked at each other with wide eyes. The 15-hour drive with Roneey Shuttle from La Ceiba, Honduras, to Leon, Nicaragua, suddenly seemed twice as grueling. It turns out we weren’t wrong!

Our driver didn't like to follow general road rules and along the way hit an object while speeding down a gravel shoulder to avoid a standstill. During a break at a gas station, I noticed brown fluid leaking from underneath the van. Although our driver didn't divulge the situation, we all knew something was wrong once we stopped at a few mechanic shops. The hodgepodge fix would take us as far as another house to obtain jugs of oil and a funnel kit.

A sigh of relief hit us all once we reached the border, but the hiccups didn't stop there. My career as a blogger led to a minor interrogation with officials. I had to reassure them I wasn't a journalist covering affairs of state, but a travel writer hoping to explore the country. Let's just say a smile and knowing how to speak a bit of Spanish came in handy.

Brad and I stuck to the main tourist route for three weeks to visit León, Granada, and Ometepe. The eclectic streets, beautiful landscapes, and fun activities are worthwhile reasons to check out Nicaragua. Below I share our top highlights to help you plan a jam-packed itinerary. Hopefully, you don't encounter any bumps along the way!

León

The center of León is an upbeat area with lively plazas, friendly vendors, and massive cathedrals. Join The Original Free Walking Tour to learn about the city's history with a bilingual guide. Tours last approximately two hours and start every day nearby the Parque Héroes y Mártires at 9:00 AM and 4:00 PM.

My favorite part of the tour was visiting the boisterous Mercado Central to taste Nicaraguan street food. We tried fried snacks, sopa de leche (bread pudding), perrerreque (sweet corn cheese bread), manuelitas (rolled crepes with cheese), pinolillo (cocoa cornmeal drink), and tropical fruits. The hearty food filled us up!

Nicaragua's past is a vital part of its identity. León was the headquarters of the student-led revolution to overthrow the Somoza dictatorship in the 1960s and 1970s. Intense fighting led by the victorious socialist Frente Sandinista de Liberación Nacional (FSLN) is memorialized with graphic murals. Black and red FSLN flags are flown throughout the country to remind citizens of the party's continued influence. If you want to learn more about the tumultuous era, check out the Museo de la Revolución.

See the city from a mesmerizing perspective atop the roof of the Catedral de León. The whitewashed domes with wrought-iron windows are particularly stunning just before sunset. Be prepared to remove your shoes in order to preserve the floors. Access to the roof is located on the south side for $4 USD per person. Bring your camera and snap away!

Cerro Negro Volcano

Ready for an adrenaline rush? Try volcano boarding! León is the perfect launch point to enjoy this extreme sport. Brad and I joined the morning tour from ViaVia Hostel (combined with our Roneey Shuttle booking) which included a free t-shirt and drink. The basic tour is $25 USD per person and begins every day at 8:00 AM.

After a turbulent ride in the back of an old army truck, we hiked for about an hour with our plywood boards before reaching the breathtaking summit. Our group got a kick out of the hot spots emitting puffs of warm steam. Cerro Negro is the youngest active volcano in Central America!

A brief tutorial commenced once we changed into our yellow jumpsuits. Wear durable shoes and bring a bandana to cover your face. Safety goggles are provided for protection against the rough volcanic stones. My anxiety kicked in as I stepped up to the starting point and sat on my board. I leaned back into position and took off a like a rocket!

Even though I made it down unscathed, I felt equal parts petrified and exhilarated. I wish I could say sledding down snow covered hills in Wisconsin as a kid prepared me for volcano boarding, but it didn't. The wild descent is a must-do activity in Nicaragua and was by far one of the craziest stunts we've ever done together!

Granada

A colorful city on Lake Nicaragua, Granada has a lot to offer visitors with unique day trips and delicious restaurants. Compared to León, Granada is politically conservative and has a safer reputation. Expats, tourists, and locals seem to live harmoniously together in this picturesque place. Brad and I felt at ease walking around at night and enjoyed the relaxed vibe.

The colonial architecture is full of gritty charm and beckons travelers to get lost wandering the streets. The most striking landmark in the city is the Catedral Inmaculada Concepción de María. Completed in 1972, the church grabs your attention with its impressive dome and symmetrical Neoclassical façade covered in eye-catching yellow/white paint.

For the best view of the cathedral, climb the bell tower of Iglesia Catolica Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la Merced just a few blocks away. The brilliant cream interior beautifully contrasts with the deteriorating exterior. The entrance fee is $1 USD per person. You may even catch a glimpse of Mombacho Volcano in the distance on a clear day!

Restaurants

Affordable eats are found in the Mercado (local market). However, if you want to check out the plentiful food and bar scene head to Calle La Calzada. The pedestrian-only street comes alive at night with various al fresco dining options. Below are a few of my favorite spots around Granada.

• Lunch - Head to The Garden Cafe for a healthy meal made with fresh ingredients. Pair a tangy juice with the summer bowl full of quinoa, grilled chicken, mango, and veggies. Another scrumptious option is Restaurante El Garaje with its international menu. Try the BBQ tandoori chicken pita with spicy tomato chutney and yogurt drizzle.

• Dinner - Pita Pita is a popular spot for Mediterranean cuisine with portions big enough to share. The crunchy falafel, seasoned shawarma, and creamy tzatziki are flavorful. Devour a smothered chicken burrito or plate of mouthwatering nachos at Nectar while you enjoy the energetic ambiance of Calle La Calzada.

San Juan de Oriente

Did you know Nicaragua is famous for its pottery? The small town of San Juan de Oriente specializes in five distinctive styles: utilitarian, traditional, pre-Columbian, geometric, and contemporary. If your luggage is already full, grab some packing supplies at Gonper Librerías Granada before shipping your package via DHL. Although expensive, our fragile items made it safely to the United States in less than a week!

San Juan de Oriente is an easy day trip from Granada. Chicken buses leave from the Nueva Terminal de Buses a Rivas at the top of every hour during the day. The direct route takes approximately one hour. Make your way back to the highway (drop-off point) once you're ready to return. The fare is only $0.50 USD each way!

Brad and I had a blast searching for handcrafted pieces in the artisan workshops. We fell in love with the terracotta anafres with faces and splurged on an intricate vase depicting a vivid coral reef. Award-winning ceramic artist Helio Gutiérrez has a gallery in town. Bring plenty of cash since most shops don't accept credit cards.

Laguna de Apoyo

Cool off from the hot and humid temperatures of Granada with a day trip to Apoyo Lagoon (the largest volcanic crater lake in Nicaragua). We booked a combo tour with Hostel Oasis that included a day pass to Paradiso Hostel and entry to Masaya Volcano for $34 USD per person.

The pristine water is refreshing and best enjoyed by floating in an inner tube! Kayaks, stand-up paddle boards, lounge chairs, and hammocks are available. The onsite bar and restaurant has a diverse menu with excellent cocktails. Bring a padlock if you would like to use the free lockers to store belongings.

Masaya Volcano National Park

Approximately 2,500 years ago, Masaya Volcano erupted causing the formation of a caldera (huge depression which forms shortly after the emptying of a magma chamber). This rare phenomenon, often confused for a crater, is actually a type of collapsed sinkhole. Plumes of sulfur dioxide gas continually float up into the atmosphere creating a dramatic effect.

Trails and lookout points are accessible during the day. Just be sure to make it back to the caldera's edge at dusk to see the lava spew and bubble like a witch's cauldron. Staring at the molten lava inside of the deep and wide abyss was a hypnotic experience!

Ometepe

Leave the hustle and bustle of the colonial cities behind and make the ferry crossing to idyllic Ometepe! The island has two volcanoes and sits on the western side of Lake Nicaragua. It's a peaceful getaway with abundant nature full of monkeys, exotic birds, and buzzing insects.

Brad and I based ourselves in Santa Cruz, a central location with walkable convenience stores and rustic restaurants. The easiest way to get around the island is by scooter or motorbike. Rental shops are abundant and rates depend on how many days you reserve. For example, we paid $18 USD per day for four days.

Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate during our stay and we decided not to climb Maderas and Concepción Volcanoes due to the wet conditions. A guide is required to hike Concepción Volcano since trails can be confusing and overgrown. There are plenty of vantage points to soak in the views if you choose to appreciate the peaks from a distance.

Restaurants

You'll find a lot of easygoing restaurants offering delicious plates around the island. Bring some bug spray for pesky mosquitos if you eat outside. Service is often slow, so be patient and plan accordingly. Here are my top recommendations for a mouthwatering meal.

• Lunch - For a laid-back setting, pull up a plastic chair at one of the palapa tables at Isla Bonita. Try the grilled fish with sautéed vegetables and tostones (fried plantains). The zesty homemade sauces add a punch of flavor!

• Dinner - Nothing curbs hunger like a hand-tossed pizza loaded with toppings, especially after a long hike. Pizzeria Mediterranea offers a variety of pies big enough to share. Go bold with the spicy chicken tikka masala or complex aloo paratha (Indian flatbread stuffed with potato curry) at Café Campestre. This farm-to-table restaurant also bakes a decadent chocolate brownie perfect for dessert.

• Dessert - Indulge in one of the vegan chocolate creations at El Pital if you need to satisfy your sweet tooth. Sipping a coconut chai latte made with peanut butter and dark chocolate was a fantastic way to take a relaxing afternoon break. The deck with comfortable lounge chairs has a pristine view of the water.

Kayaking

A serene way to appreciate the beauty of Ometepe is by kayaking the river that bisects the island. Rio Istián is an oasis full of wildlife, enchanting trees, and calm water. Paddle through duckweed and maneuver between branches as rays of sunshine pierce through the canopy illuminating various shades of lime, emerald, and forest green.

Our guide via El Caiman Kayak Tours pointed out critters such as bats, owls, turtles, lizards, birds, and caimans. Tours last approximately two hours and cost $20 USD per person. Pack plenty of water and wear a swimsuit. Exploring this lush landscape was a spectacular adventure!

Petroglyphs

The pre-Columbian inhabitants of Ometepe left traces of their culture behind in ornate petroglyphs. Thousands of basalt boulders have been found with carved spirals, anthropomorphic figures, motifs, and zoomorphic figures. Archaeologists have also found sites with pottery, sculptures, and utensils. Some of the best places to see petroglyphs are nearby the Mirador Maderas, El Porvenir Hostel, and Finca Magdalena Hostel. Leave no stone unturned and keep an eye out for howler monkeys hanging in the trees!

San Ramón Waterfall

A challenging hike worth the effort is the rugged out-and-back 8 km (5 mi) trail to San Ramón Waterfall. Located on the south side of Maderas Volcano, this 60 m (197 ft) waterfall is a refreshing reward after a sweaty trek through farm fields and dense jungle. Cooling off beneath the mist cascading down the moss-covered rock face was a magical moment.

The trailhead begins at the Estación Biológica de Ometepe and requires an entry fee of $3 USD per person. Although the hike is possible in active sandals, I recommend wearing hiking shoes due to the terrain. Bring a waterproof bag, insect repellent, snacks, and water. Time your return to see a glowing sunset over Lake Nicaragua.

Final Thoughts

If you're looking to surf or enjoy a night of partying, check out San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast. Consider a flight to the Corn Islands on the Caribbean side for tranquil beaches with swaying palm trees. Since Brad and I previously spent three weeks on the Bay Islands in Honduras to learn how to scuba dive, we didn't feel like adding those spots to the route.

Nicaragua is a country worth visiting, especially during a Central America backpacking trip. The authentic cities of León and Granada are juxtaposed with the untouched natural beauty of Ometepe. Dive into the current culture which is fueled by resilient people trying to overcome political hardships. Jolt your senses by traveling to a provocative country actively writing its next chapter!