Review of Trogón Lodge - San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica

To behold the captivating beauty of a male Resplendent Quetzal is a spectacular moment. Your psyche becomes entranced by dazzling feathers of metallic teal, emerald, and crimson perched on moss-covered branches. Twin plumages cascade down like a mesmerizing waterfall glistening in the sun. Distinctive calls with powerful slurred notes vibrate through the cloud forest canopy as males and females flutter around aguacatillo trees to feed.

Sacred to the ancient Maya and Aztec civilizations, the bird was a symbol of freedom, virtue, and light. Killing a quetzal was punishable by death since it represented the god Quetzalcoatl. Tail feathers were carefully plucked from momentarily captured birds to adorn ceremonial headdresses worn by the royal court.

During a battle in 1524, Maya warrior Tecún Umán suffered a mortal wound by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Alvarado. According to legend, a solid green quetzal flew down and landed on his chest to honor his valiant sacrifice. As the male bird ascended toward the sky, its feathers were forever stained with the blood of the courageous hero.

The cultural importance of the Resplendent Quetzal hasn't wavered over the centuries. As the national bird of Guatemala, it's featured on the flag and coat of arms. The currency is also known as the quetzal, tying back to the Maya belief that quetzal feathers were worth as much as gold.

Birdwatchers also regard the bird as the crown jewel of Central America. A Resplendent Quetzal sighting provides kudos to any amateur or expert birder's repertoire. A prime place to witness this masterpiece of Mother Earth is in the Savegre Valley of San Gerardo de Dota near the Parque Nacional Los Quetzales in Costa Rica. The national park protects a portion of vital cloud forest habitat that the quetzals need to thrive.

Brad and I caught quetzal fever after finding our first male at the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve. The breathtaking encounter motivated us to see more by booking four nights at Trogón Lodge in San Gerardo de Dota. Below I review our relaxing stay and Quetzal Quest tour to help you decide if this experience is right for you!

Trogón Lodge

Ecotourism in the region skyrocketed in the late 1990s. The influx of tourists, biologists, and researchers eager to catch a glimpse of the illustrious Resplendent Quetzal resulted in the establishment of several lodges and sustainable hotels. Trogón Lodge is tucked within a mountainous ravine covered with lush trees, colorful flowers, and thick fog. The Savegre River flows through the property and generates a musical trickle to transport your mind back to the essence of nature.

The area is ideal for couples and individuals looking for an off-the-beaten-path escape. Buildings and cabins harmoniously integrate with the surrounding gardens and hillside. Large windows, wood accents, and rustic details add to the cozy aesthetic. Disconnect from the digital world by reading a book or meditating as you share the impeccable grounds with playful sparrows and hummingbirds. Listen to the magical pulse of paradise as you hike private trails and sit on decks overlooking trout ponds.

Location & Transportation

Trogón Lodge is located 85 km (53 mi) southeast from the capital city of San José and 113 km (70 mi) north from the Pacific coastal town of Uvita. Either route takes approximately 2.5 hours by vehicle. Reach out via email if you have any questions or concerns. Friendly staff can arrange private transportation and taxis with adequate notice if you don't have a vehicle or want to catch a local bus.

Brad and I hired a taxi to drive us directly from Uvita for $200 USD. Brad suffered a painful foot injury at the Nauyaca Waterfalls the day before our departure, so we opted for a more comfortable journey instead of public transit. A 4x4 vehicle is the best way to reach Trogón Lodge, but a sedan will also work. There is a tricky and steep 7 km (4 mi) road with an elevation descent of 1,000 m (3,281 ft) once you leave the main highway toward the property. Proceed with caution!

Buses leave between 6:00 AM-5:00 PM from the MUSOC bus terminal in San José to San Isidro de El General. If you're coming from Uvita, you may need to take two buses depending on the route. Board the first at the Tracopa LTDA bus terminal heading to San Isidro de El General and find a connection at either the GAFESO, Blanco, or MUSOC bus terminals toward San José. Advise the bus driver you need to get off at road marker KM 80 for San Gerardo de Dota.

Be sure to coordinate with the staff of Trogón Lodge ahead of time so a taxi can transport you the rest of the way. After checkout, we arranged a taxi via the concierge to drive us to the bus stop heading to San José for $20 USD. We flagged down a bus after waiting roughly 30 minutes. The bus fare was $7 USD per person in local currency. Keep in mind direct express buses won’t stop to pick you up, but regular commuter buses will pull over. A steady amount of buses pass through daily, so don't get discouraged!

Arrival & Room

As soon as Brad and I arrived at the property and breathed in the crisp air, we knew Trogón Lodge was special. I felt a wave of inner peace as I took a moment to appreciate the remarkable environment around me. My excitement grew as I noticed framed photographs of beautiful birds hanging on the walls at reception while we waited to check in. After our reservation was confirmed, staff explained the various amenities, tours, and trails before escorting us to our room.

Brad and I booked a standard room with two queen beds and a private bathroom. The wood paneling, large windows with flower boxes, and rocking chair on the shared porch complemented the charming cabin. Each bed was extremely comfortable with plenty of pillows and soft sheets. Every night around 6:00 PM, staff came by with reusable water bottles to warm the beds. A space heater was also provided to regulate the temperature. There wasn't any Wi-Fi access or television in the room, which didn't bother us at all.

The tiled bathroom included shampoo, soap, nice towels, facial tissues, and a hair dryer. The hot water was wonderful, but shared with the adjacent room. One evening, Brad and I heard our frustrated neighbor through the wall complaining of a freezing shower. We figured our previous showers had an impact. Oops!

Overall, the room was spacious, cozy, and clean. Trogón Lodge is an eco-friendly hotel. Try to use hot water sparingly and turn off the space heater and lights when you leave the room. We also opted to forgo housekeeping and reused our towels to do our part. Rates increase during the high season (November-April) and depend on the number of occupants.

Trails & Amenities

One of the deciding factors for us to stay at Trogón Lodge was the private trails. I loved walking in the cloud forest while hearing the leaves rustle in the cool breeze. The meandering trails took a few hours to complete at a leisurely pace. Squirrels and birds kept me company since Brad's foot injury prevented him from hiking. To be alone with my thoughts and daydream in this fairytale landscape was a true getaway. I always kept my eyes peeled for a Resplendent Quetzal, but didn't have any luck!

If you need a touch of modernity, head to the clubhouse next to reception. Grab a cocktail, tea, or coffee at the bar and play a round of pool. Park yourself on the leather couch and revel in the ambience. The clubhouse has Wi-Fi access, baked goods, and a veranda overlooking the Savegre River. It's also a popular hangout before dinner to mingle with other guests and share wildlife stories. The inviting decor full of antique radios, plants, and ceramic accents adds a dash of luxury.

El Quetzal Restaurant

Trogón Lodge has one restaurant for meals. Reservations are expected for breakfast (7:00-9:00 AM), lunch (12:30-2:00 PM), and dinner (6:30-8:30 PM). El Quetzal Restaurant features custom wooden tables with wicker chairs beneath Tiffany style stained glass lamps. The wood burning stove surrounded by rustic metal kitchenware is delightful!

A generous breakfast is included with the room rate. Coffee, tea, and tropical fruit are served first followed by authentic Costa Rican or American cuisines. My go-to menu selection was the fluffy pancakes. The restaurant is very accommodating if you're vegan, vegetarian, or gluten intolerant. Let your server know if you have any allergies or preferences.

The somewhat expensive menu is the same for lunch and dinner. We found a more affordable lunch option down the road at Doña Marlen Restaurant. I recommend trying the mouthwatering trout sandwich or fried fish basket. The lime pie with homemade chutney was divine! Enjoy your meal on the outdoor balcony to watch hummingbirds zoom around the hanging flower baskets and feeders.

El Quetzal Restaurant knows how to deliver a sensory farm-to-table dining experience. Hydroponic vegetables and herbs are grown on the property and used alongside locally sourced ingredients. Even though all of the meals we tried were satisfying, the trout entrées were the most flavorful. Fish are raised in multiple ponds on site making it super fresh and sustainable!

Quetzal Quest

Trogón Lodge has four outdoor activities with round-trip transportation available during your stay. Join a birdwatching tour or adventure hike to immerse yourself in the wonderful ecosystem. San Gerardo de Dota has approximately 175 bird species to discover! The most popular tour, Quetzal Quest, is led by Greivin Gonzalez every day at 5:10 AM. Meet for coffee at the restaurant before riding in a van to a nearby fruit farm. The cost is $37 USD per person with a portion paid directly to the farm owner. After about two hours, you'll return for breakfast.

As dawn broke over the misty rolling hills, we noticed plentiful fruit trees flanking our position in the open grassland. Patiently waiting for Resplendent Quetzals was beyond exciting! Fortunately, their behaviors are predictable in the morning since they like to eat tiny avocados from aguacatillo trees. Our group gasped in unison as we saw our first male swoop down from the dense canopy to grab a morsel with its beak. Brad and I couldn't believe our glistening eyes!

Greivin explained quetzals have a symbiotic relationship with aguacatillo trees. Birds swallow one seed at a time, perch on a branch, and wait approximately 20 minutes to digest the outer flesh before regurgitating the seed. The cycle not only helps propagate new trees, but also creates more food for the birds.

An added bonus was the appearance of a Northern Emerald Toucanet! It was as if the toucanet was jealous of us all swooning over the quetzals so he loudly called to grab our attention from behind. Our amazement was enhanced by Greivin's contagious enthusiasm. He made sure everyone had an opportunity to see the quetzals and toucanet through the spotting scope and was happy to take pictures/videos. He captured this amazing clip of the Northern Emerald Toucanet for us!

In total, our group observed five males and two females! Greivin must've sensed our love for nature and gave us permission to return to the farm in the afternoon. Brad and I spent another two hours marveling at Resplendent Quetzals all by ourselves. It was one of the best birdwatching days of my life! Luckily, quetzals inhabit the region all year long, but prime season is between November-May. These months are also the dry season in Costa Rica with pleasant weather and infrequent rain showers. Our visit in late December was fantastic.

Greivin was a highlight of our memorable stay. His passion for nature, Resplendent Quetzals, and life was inspiring. We enjoyed showing him our bird photographs and hearing about his daily sightings. He is a kind, spirited, and knowledgeable guide. I highly recommend booking a tour with him!

Packing Tips & Photography

Trogón Lodge sits at an elevation of 2,200 m (7,218 ft) along the Talamanca Mountain Range. Even with beautiful sunshine, the weather can fluctuate in a matter of minutes. Bursts of rain are common in the chilly cloud forests, so prepare with adequate layers and a rain jacket. Brad and I were comfortable with our hiking shoes, pants, and sweatshirts. Although we didn't have any issues with pesky bugs, bring insect repellent just in case.

Consider packing some snacks and drinks, especially if you want to save money. We brought peanut butter, granola, and trail mix. Next to Doña Marlen Restaurant is a small tienda (convenience store) with soda, alcohol, chips, and sweets. You may have to track down the owner for service since customers are far and few between!

Brad and I had a blast capturing birds with our Canon EOS R5 camera. We pushed our 24-105 mm lens to the limit by shooting in manual focus with high magnification to ensure the distant birds were as sharp as possible. Since our lens was short, we couldn't effectively use the built-in autofocus or animal tracking systems. A telephoto lens would definitely make shooting easier. Consider bringing a tripod if you want to record video.

Final Thoughts

Our four-night stay at Trogón Lodge turned out to be the right choice for us to observe Resplendent Quetzals. Despite the sticker shock, the gorgeous hotel was worth the splurge. Looking back, we probably only needed two nights. Compared to other guests on the roster, we had the longest reservation. However, we made the most of it by unplugging, hiking, and birdwatching. Being nestled in the picturesque valley along the river felt like we were privy to a secret oasis.

The Quetzal Quest tour was an extraordinary adventure. Seeing and hearing Resplendent Quetzals in their pristine cloud forest habitat left us awestruck. If San Gerardo de Dota doesn't work for your Costa Rica itinerary, check out the parks of Curi-Cancha Reserve and Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve for a chance to find a quetzal. I wish you the best of luck during your expedition to find this renowned bird!