San Blas Islands, Panama: An Unplugged Tropical Escape

Shell yeah, beaches! Kick off your flip flops and dial your mindset to island time with a jaunt to the San Blas Islands archipelago in the Caribbean Sea. Absorb the warmth of salty turquoise water, camp on beaches beneath dazzling stars, and form meaningful friendships with laid-back travelers as you hop along a few of the 365 islands that make up this rustic paradise in Panama.

Ditch your cell phone, modern conveniences, and expectations to fully appreciate your stay. Relax in the sweetness of doing absolutely nothing and plop your butt on a hammock, towel, or palm tree in between optional excursions. Below I share our multi-day tour with San Blas Dreams, the company we used to experience this oasis, to help you decide if it's also right for you!

San Blas Islands

The indigenous territory of Guna Yala consists of a small strip of land on the Caribbean Coast and San Blas Islands. The native Guna people inhabit 49 of these islands and govern the area independently from Panama. They have their own unique laws, religion, culture, and language. Learning a few key phrases and words in Spanish will benefit your trip since English is rarely spoken. More than likely there will be another traveler nearby to help if you get lost in translation!

Upon first glance, the flag of Guna Yala with its black swastika is reminiscent of the Nazi Party. However, the symbol represents the pain and mistreatment of the Guna people during the revolution to fight against the repressive Panama government in 1925. They eventually won the right to protect their harmonious way of life, but unfortunately 27 lives were lost during the rebellion. The red and yellow colors represent spilled blood and prosperity, respectively.

Women wear traditional head scarves (muswe) and adorn their arms/legs with intricate beadwork (chakira). Patterned wrap skirts (saburet) and needlework blouse panels (molas) typically feature animals, floral motifs, and geometric designs. Consider buying a colorful mola as a souvenir to support the locals. Keep in mind the Guna people don't like their picture taken without permission. Try to build rapport with a friendly conversation or purchase before asking for a photograph. I opted for a few sneaky candid shots instead!

The islands come in all different shapes and sizes, but the biggest are usually more developed with schools, residential areas, and community centers. The Guna people protect their beautiful home from mass tourism by regulating the amount of visitors. In addition to tourism revenue, they sustain their way of life via fishing, coconut production, and handicraft sales.

Although the majority of our interactions were friendly, Brad and I felt our presence on Ina Island was an inconvenience. Bartenders and kids were easygoing, but tour guides and restaurant staff didn't seem to have any interest exchanging pleasantries. I'm sure it gets a bit old dealing with foreigners in your backyard every day.

San Blas Dreams

Brad and I booked a four-day excursion with San Blas Dreams after surfing the web for reputable tour agencies, reading blog posts, and speaking to fellow travelers. The total cost for two people was $720 USD with an additional $46 USD in port fees. The package included round-trip transportation in Panama City, private accommodations, meals, and excursions. Any less time and we would've felt rushed in the San Blas Islands!

Transportation

We stayed at the trendy Nómada Container Hotel in Panama City before and after our visit to the San Blas Islands. The kind staff kept our unnecessary luggage safe and sound at no additional charge. I highly recommend checking out the hotel for its affordability, location, and hospitality!

A 4x4 picked us up from our hotel at approximately 5:30 AM. The cramped, hot, and bumpy ride lasted three hours and included one bathroom break at a convenience store. Before reaching the coast, we stopped at a passport checkpoint and paid the port tax ($23 USD per person). Try to have exact change to make it easier on the driver.

Organized chaos began once we arrived at the dock. Men scurried around on cell phones crosschecking passenger lists as boats pulled up to the piers. Wristbands were issued as we patiently waited to be told where to go. Brad and I just shrugged our shoulders and hoped we would be taken to the right place.

I recommend wrapping your luggage in a waterproof cover or plastic bag since the journey is often fast and wet. Keep fragile items with you because the bow of the boat slams repeatedly against the waves. Fortunately, our camera didn't suffer any damage during the wild ride. You'll board similar boats during your excursions and transfers to other islands. Lifejackets are provided and mandatory to wear. Sit in the middle of the boat if you want to avoid a big splash to the face!

Accommodations

Brad and I paid extra for private spaces during our three nights, but dorms are common and more affordable. We slept in a boarded room with a sand floor, beach tent (our favorite), and elevated bungalow. The mattresses were comfortable with flannel sheets, but the pillows weren't supportive. Luckily, we brought our mini travel pillows in compressible sacks. I slept like a rock, but Brad felt overheated. Consider snoozing in a hammock if you need a cool breeze. Prepare for humid nights and simplicity!

There wasn't any secure place to store our valuables (cash, GoPro, camera, and passports) during our stay. In order to have piece of mind, we kept our important gear with us most of the time. We never heard of any issues with theft, but better safe than sorry. Our boarded room had a latch for a padlock, but we forgot to bring one. Instead, we found a lone wire twist tie in the sand to use as a makeshift deterrent.

A small padlock would've been useful as well to secure our tent zippers. Our bungalow didn't have any mechanism to close the door and I was a bit surprised when a Guna woman entered to deliver sheets without a knock. This would've been especially awkward if I was changing!

The bathrooms/showers were extremely basic and didn't have hot/fresh water. We packed our Grayl filtered water bottle, but soon realized we couldn't use it on any of the islands because of the saline. Prepare for clogged toilets, lack of soap to wash your hands, and poor lighting. I had one makeshift plastic PVC pipe shower come apart and hit me on the head!

Food & Beverages

Meals were pretty straightforward and prepared with fresh ingredients on the islands. The fried fish and curry chicken were exceptional. Vegetarian selections have fruit instead of meat. White rice, lentils, beans, coleslaw, salad, and fried potatoes were popular sides. Our plates were practically licked clean!

Breakfast was unremarkable and consisted of fried dough with processed American cheese singles and fried eggs. Some guests dipped their fried dough in Hershey’s chocolate syrup and sugar to make it more edible. I skipped breakfast altogether and gladly shared my portion with anyone who needed a few extra bites.

Cups of coffee/tea were served at breakfast and bottled water was provided during lunch/dinner. I brought a few single-serve milk cartons to have with my coffee so I could start each day with a tiny creature comfort! Some islands have items available for purchase such as candy bars, cookies, beer, chips, coconuts, water, and juice. Cocktails were reasonably priced and strong. Our group enjoyed a round of coco locos (coconut water and rum mixed inside a fresh coconut) while relaxing on the beach.

Don't forget to bring snacks! Brad and I packed two large bags of chips, squeezable fruit pouches, granola bars, electrolyte drinks, spiced rum, and trail mix. My only regret was forgetting some fruit, such as apples or oranges. A jar of peanut butter would've been another healthy option. Consider making room in your luggage for marshmallows, chocolate bars, and graham crackers. Assembling a round of s'mores would be a fun addition to any beach bonfire and the perfect icebreaker. Nothing brings people together like yummy desserts!

Activities & Excursions

I firmly believe your top priority in the San Blas Islands should be relaxing. Channel your inner beach bum with a good book, refreshing swim, or nap in a swaying hammock. Feel the sun and sand on your skin as you listen to rustling palms and crashing waves. Rejuvenate your mind and breathe in the salty air as you look out toward the horizon. You're on island time!

There are plenty of activities if you need to mix it up. Play a round of volleyball, snorkel to discover marine life, cruise around on a stand up paddle board, or share travel stories beneath the glistening stars. Each island has its own unique vibe and atmosphere. Brad and I fell in love with Anmardub Island (second night) where we camped on the beach and bonded with new friends. Our group didn't have to share the easygoing island with anybody else. Guanidup Island (first night) and Ina Island (third night) felt a tad overdeveloped, but beautiful nonetheless.

Ready to explore the magical San Blas Islands? The Day 1 excursion to uninhabited Ucubsui Island was a neat area for pictures and seashells, but the quick stop at the waist-deep Natural Pool left us a little perplexed. After the busy morning, Brad and I took the opportunity to appreciate the translucent water rather than snorkel around the sand bar for 20 minutes.

On Day 2 we spent a sunny afternoon at Pelicano Island by hanging out with drinks, eating Snickers candy bars, and soaking in the tranquil ocean. Sharing the San Blas Islands with amazing people from all over of the world really made the trip fantastic! After three rushed and early mornings shuffling around to different islands, Brad and I opted to skip the Day 3 excursions to the Guna Village and Saiba Waterfall. Alternatively, we sunbathed on the beach, sipped a couple of fruit juices, and walked around Ina Island.

Please do your part to help keep the environment clean. Properly dispose of trash, decline plastic straws, and limit food waste. It was heartbreaking to see cigarette butts poking out of the sand and garbage along the seafloor while I was snorkeling. Our planet and wildlife deserve better. Strive to leave only footprints and take only memories.

Packing Tips

Less is more in the San Blas Islands! Brad and I brought two 15L backpacks to hold our clothes, electronics, and hygiene supplies. We stuffed all of our snacks and beverages into a 20L duffle bag. Prioritize swimsuits and athletic clothing to stay comfortable in the sticky climate. Leave any makeup and fancy outfits behind. A hat and pair of sunglasses are a must! I packed the following items:

Most importantly, remember to bring your passport, cell phone, cash, and go-with-the-flow attitude! There are no ATMs on the San Blas Islands and network coverage is limited. Ultimately, we didn't use our GoPro and taking care of our electronics felt like a burden. Sometimes the camera was an annoying ball and chain. Decide for yourself if high resolution photographs are necessary. The group shot alone was worth the effort and a treasured keepsake we shared with everyone. Consider adding these things to your packing list:

In a (Coco) Nut Shell

The San Blas Islands shook up my idea of an island getaway. I tossed my OCD personality traits out the window in Panama City and unplugged. Go in with zero expectations regarding the weather, excursions, facilities, people, and islands. You'll definitely have more fun with a chill approach and positive outlook.

Our playful tribe bonded by sharing meals, laughs, and lazy afternoons. Foraging for firewood on Anmardub Island in order to keep our bonfire lit was a highlight. All of us giggling as if we were kids again in a romanticized take on Lord of the Flies is a cherished moment I'll never forget. Embrace going back to basics, being unreachable from the outside world, and feeling the wonder of paradise found!