El Salvador: The Black Sheep of Central America?

To skip, or not to skip? That is a question travelers, especially backpackers, ask themselves when it comes El Salvador. Most bypass the smallest country in Central America due to safety concerns or time constraints. Fortunately, big strides, albeit political martial law, have taken place to help citizens and visitors feel at ease. More than 80,000 suspected gang members have been arrested resulting in a record low for homicide rates.

Although Brad and I remained vigilant during our two-week stay, we never felt unsafe or experienced a problem. Our whirlwind adventure in El Salvador was full of laid-back afternoons and exciting hikes. Check out our highlights below to help you decide if El Salvador is worth a trip!

El Zonte

The Pacific town of El Zonte feels like a hidden oasis. Playa El Zonte has a beautiful rocky coastline, but due to the powerful currents it isn't ideal for swimming. Instead, take a walk along the shore during low tide to find some unique seashells and play with the adorable hermit crabs.

Brad and I stayed at the picturesque Palo Verde Hotel to enjoy lazy days at the pool with a good book. The breakfast spread is delicious and the perfect way to jumpstart every morning. I highly recommend the hotel for its comfortable bed, stunning views, and friendly staff. It's a fantastic spot to hit the reset button!

The turbulent waves crashing against the black volcanic sand are hypnotizing. Both amateur and expert surfers show off their skills during high tide. Many shops offer affordable lessons and surfboard rentals. If you're looking for a place to recharge without obnoxious crowds or parties, consider El Zonte for its meditative vibes.

El Tunco

If learning how to surf is on your bucket list, head over to the bohemian town of El Tunco. Backpackers and modern-day hippies will appreciate the chill atmosphere, nightlife, and cheap accommodations. In between meals or beach breaks, walk along the charming streets to browse souvenir shops and vendor booths.

Brad and I spent most of our days working on the blog since we didn't feel up for surf lessons. If you prefer to hang out with a cocktail, multiple oceanfront restaurants and bars have elevated viewpoints to watch the surfers. A nightly local tradition is heading to the iconic pig-shaped rock formation to admire show-stopping fluorescent sunsets.

Santa Ana

Santa Ana, the second-largest city in El Salvador, is a prime location to base yourself for one-of-a-kind day trips. There are two main bus terminals offering cheap rides on eclectic chicken buses to popular destinations. Exploring the area may take a bit more effort compared to other countries in Central America, but that's half the fun!

Venture to the main plaza to get a sense of Salvadoran culture. Take a seat on a bench, sip a refreshingly sweet horchata, and do some people-watching. Sample a papusa (thick corn flour flatbread) stuffed with refried beans and cheese topped with curtido (spicy fermented cabbage slaw) and tomato salsa. The national dish is hearty and flavorful.

Once you finish wandering the square, check out the gorgeous white Gothic Revival façade of the Catedral de Santa Ana. Its magnificent spires make up for the unimpressive architecture throughout the rest of the city. Consider a guided tour of the renovated Teatro de Santa Ana, which features a pastel green façade with white accents. Performance schedules are available at the box office.

Ruta de las Flores

Perhaps the most touristy thing to do in El Salvador is a road trip along the Ruta de las Flores. The meandering route through lush hills and coffee fields includes the five towns of Juayúa, Salcoatitán, Apaneca, Ataco, and Ahuachapán. The best time of year to see colorful flowers is between November-February. Luckily, Mother Nature revealed a variety of blooms during our visit in early October.

Try to go during a weekend to take advantage of the lively food festival in Juayúa. Vendors display huge plates of meat, seafood, and sides to entice customers. A satisfying meal costs as little as $5.00 USD! Drink a piña colada while shopping for handmade trinkets, bracelets, and vibrant bags.

The Ruta de las Flores is accessible by chicken bus #249 starting in Sonsonate. Buses leave every 15 minutes and stop at every town. Ask the bus drivers whether the arrival and departure stops are the same. Locals are very helpful if you need directions. Don't end up lost like I did in the evergreen maze at Café Albania in Apaneca!

Brad and I opted to hire a private driver to save time. A major downside was the hefty price tag of $130 USD. The tour was underwhelming since our unenthusiastic guide didn't have a lot of knowledge about the towns. Fortunately, the intricate murals and craft shops in Ataco made up for our poor transportation decision. In retrospect, I would've taken chicken buses and prioritized Juayúa, Apaneca, and Ataco.

Las Siete Cascadas

My favorite activity in El Salvador was hiking and repelling the trail of The Seven Waterfalls with friends we met in Santa Ana. Hiring a local guide is necessary because you'll need ropes and assistance traversing the slippery terrain. Bring a waterproof bag, active sandals, and plenty of snacks/water. Consider wearing a swimsuit since there are natural pools along the way!

We met our guide, Elizabeth (WhatsApp +503 6113 7277) via Gaviotita Tours Aventuras, in the main plaza of Juayúa at 8:00 AM. To get there from Santa Ana, Brad and I rode chicken bus #238 which departed from the Francisco Lara Pineda bus terminal at 6:50 AM. The tour is $15 USD per person and lasts approximately four hours.

After a quick truck ride to the trailhead, Elizabeth and her brother led the way through steep hills, dense jungle, and streams. Playful butterflies kept us company along the trail in between the first three waterfalls. The adrenaline kicked in at the fourth waterfall! I hung on for dear life as I pulled myself up on the ropes while carefully watching my footing on the rocks. At the top is another waterfall to the right. Beware of the obscure cliff as you look for miniature crabs in the clear pools.

Towards the end of the hike is the sixth waterfall with exfoliating brown mineral clay. Elizabeth showed us how to prepare the thick mud and apply it on our faces to rejuvenate the skin. Los Chorros de la Calera, a wide cascading waterfall, was the epic finale of our hike. We all cooled off with a few cannonballs to celebrate the thrilling expedition!

Santa Ana Volcano

Ready to see a steaming turquoise lagoon inside of an active volcanic crater? The spectacular views atop the 2,381 m (7,812 ft) summit of Santa Ana Volcano are worth the effort. Puffs of clouds danced over the landscape while strong wind gusts cooled us off after our sweaty trek. The contrasting colors produced by the minerals are awe-inspiring!

Getting to the trailhead is easy and affordable. From Santa Ana, go to the Sala de Espera y Abordaje "La Vencedora" bus station and buy a one-way ticket ($0.70 USD per person) for chicken bus #248 to Parque Nacional Los Volcanes (Cerro Verde). The ride takes approximately two hours and leaves at 7:30 AM.

The main park entrance was closed during our visit so the bus driver dropped us off at El Tibet. Several local guides were waiting to offer their services. If you want to go the DIY route, follow the signs up the hill until you reach a small wooden shack. You'll have to pay a fee of $1.25 USD per person to access the private property adjacent to the trailhead.

Continue onward a short distance to reach the ticket booth and pay the entrance fee of $6.00 USD per person. Although a park employee will advise you to join the police escorted group, it's completely unnecessary. The trail is well marked and the government has taken steps to ensure tourist safety. If you would rather go on the guided hike, expect to pay a few dollars as a tip.

The trail is a steady incline with rugged terrain and brush. Soak up the views of the neighboring volcanoes in the distance from the metal watchtower. Depending on your fitness level, you should reach the top with a moderate pace in two hours or less. After about 30 minutes, we headed back down to catch the 1:00 PM bus in order to spend time at Lago de Coatepeque. Be sure to ask the bus driver for the return pickup times to plan your hike accordingly.

The Rundown

So is El Salvador worth it? If you have the time, energy, and budget to include El Salvador on your journey through Central America, I would say yes! The Pacific beach towns are easygoing places to unwind and Santa Ana is an ideal launch point for fun nature activities. Travelers looking for something off the beaten path will be pleasantly surprised.

However, I wouldn't necessarily recommend coming to El Salvador for a special trip. The cities could use some TLC and the country is still recovering from its tumultuous past. Expect to see homelessness, trash in the streets, and a widespread military presence. Whether or not you skip El Salvador mainly depends on your interests. Ultimately, experiencing a new culture is never regrettable!