Scuba Diving in the Bay Islands: Utila and Roatán

Taking a breath underwater for the first time is an electrifying moment. Your mind and body are at odds screaming at each other while you sink deeper into the depths away from the safety of the surface. All you have is your confidence as the pressure builds and the light fades. After countless snorkeling trips around the globe, Brad and I felt ready to learn how to scuba dive. To be closer to marine life with a full tank of air was a dream come true!

We spent about three weeks on the Bay Islands of Utila and Roatán on the northern coast of Honduras in the Caribbean Sea. We completed our PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) Open Water and Advanced Open Water courses with Underwater Vision in Utila (one of the cheapest places in the world to get certified) before heading to Roatán to test our skills with Native Sons. Below I describe the island vibes, review our experiences with each company, and share our fantastic encounters.

Utila

Stepping off the ferry in Utila was like landing in a laid-back oasis complete with swaying palm trees, dive shops, and thousands of hungry mosquitos. Bring some insect repellent to avoid itchy bites. It's safe to assume every tourist you meet on the island is there to scuba dive, whether to obtain a certification or improve existing skills. You'll make friends easily!

I highly recommend having a few dive shops in mind before you arrive on the island. Most have dorms (included with scuba diving certifications) and private rooms (for an additional fee) located on-site. The three most popular dive shops are Utila Dive Center, Underwater Vision, and Alton's Dive Center. Check reviews and compare prices to see which one is right for you.

Once you complete your certification, feel free to go on fun dives with other shops. No need to stay loyal unless you want to! Most dive boats go to the same locations, so be sure to know the schedule before signing up to avoid a repetitive dive. Brad and I stuck with Underwater Vision during our trip because we were already familiar with its protocols, employees, and equipment.

Utila is small and walkable, but tuk tuks are available if you need a lift. More than likely you won't stray too far away from Main Street, the town's principal road. Souvenir shops, grocery stores, cafés, restaurants, fruit stands, and tour operators line both sides. Sometimes the two ATMs are out of cash, so plan accordingly if you need local currency.

Looking for relaxing beaches where you can soak up some rays? Grab a few drinks and hang out under the partially submerged palapa tables at Chepes Beach (public and free) or catch a golden sunset while swaying in a hammock with a frozen cocktail at Bando Beach (private and 50 HNL per person). Both are chill study spots!

Restaurants

Travelers with salty hair walk up and down Main Street in search of affordable meals after tiring dives. Most restaurants are casual and cash only. My advice is to follow the crowds to find mouthwatering eats. Fuel up with some of our favorite spots below!

• Lunch - A trip to Honduras isn't complete without trying a baleada. This tasty street food is made with a fluffy flour tortilla smeared with refried beans, crumbled cheese, and sour cream. Fillings include fresh vegetables, chicken, eggs, and avocado. Our top place was La Casita. Be sure to smother your baleada with the creamy and spicy sauces for extra flavor.

• Dinner - Head to RJ's for huge portions of freshly grilled fish and sides. The value is unbeatable and the atmosphere is lively. Arrive early to snag a piece of the decadent chocolate or coconut cake. Another great option for seafood and ceviche is Mario's Place. Pair your meal with one of the homemade condiments or add a kick with the delicious habanero salsa.

• Dessert - If you're craving an afternoon sugar rush, try one of the organic chocolate creations at Utila Chocolate Co. Two homemade scoops of velvety ice cream balanced the intense semi-sweet chocolate in the brownie. Unique chocolate bar flavors, such as lemongrass, are also available for purchase.

Underwater Vision

Utila has a variety of dive shops with similar price points. Along our travels in Central America, we met a few backpackers who recommended Underwater Vision for its safe program, friendly employees, and facilities. As fate would have it, we met Dane, one of our instructors, during our time in Copán Ruinas!

Cost & Reviews

After a bit of research and negotiating, we chose Underwater Vision over Utila Dive Center and Alton's Dive Center (all had stellar reviews). Plus our friend, Carla, who started her scuba diving certification before us, liked the atmosphere at Underwater Vision and recommended the business.

The PADI Open Water and Advanced Open Water courses were the cheapest of the three at $313 USD each. Both courses included two fun dives, which we enjoyed after the completion of our final course. Underwater Vision accepts payments via credit card, but an additional service fee of 6% is required. You can also pay in cash (either USD or HNL).

Accommodations

Dorms with a fan at Underwater Vision are free throughout dive courses! The rate is $10 USD per night during fun dives and days bordering courses. Rates increase to $15 USD per night without scuba diving. Suites and private rooms with air conditioning and hot water are also available. Private rooms and suites with scuba diving start at $25 USD and $94 USD per night, respectively.

Brad and I opted to rent an apartment at Bush's Suites for $54 USD (including electric) per night next door to Underwater Vision. The basic kitchen at Underwater Vision wasn't going to work for our needs and we wanted some extra privacy. In the end, our furnished apartment with air conditioning was more comfortable than staying on-site.

Facilities

Underwater Vision has a beautiful stretch of water bordered by two piers. Lounge chairs, hammocks, and picnic tables are plentiful on the sand. Mingle with a drink at the bar or enjoy a meal at the on-site restaurant. Make new friends by joining a game of pool or volleyball. Underwater Vision also has trivia and karaoke nights to bring everyone together on dry land.

If you happen to be traveling during the holidays, pack some fun accessories and clothes. We really enjoyed dressing up as a checkers board for the Halloween party. One of the games involved two instructors, each with a fitted snorkel mask full of beer, racing to be first by consuming it all through their noses! Crazy shenanigans make the best memories!

Scuba Equipment

The gear at Underwater Vision is pretty decent. Fins, snorkels, buoyancy control devices (BCDs), weights, tanks, and regulators were in good condition. Always be sure to inspect your equipment before heading out on the dive boat. Some of the wetsuits had torn underarm fabric. Ask for a better wetsuit if you get cold easily. Chances are you'll be able to switch it without any issues. Comfort is key to a successful and pleasant dive!

Classroom & Instructors

Underwater Vision has numerous PADI courses ranging from beginner to advanced. Specialty courses are available such as rescue, instructor, and digital photography. Brad and I were fortunate to have fellow instructor and underwater photographer, Dorothee Feickert, take pictures of us during a training day. The following candid shots captured our whirlwind adventure perfectly!

While looking at TripAdvisor reviews, we noticed Cynthia was a popular instructor for her professionalism, positive attitude, safety, and by-the-book approach. She exceeded our expectations and really made our time at Underwater Vision phenomenal. Cynthia's patience, confidence, and knowledge put us at ease every time we followed her into the water.

Dane, our assistant instructor, was equally superb. His approachable, fun, and easygoing nature helped us feel comfortable asking questions. We really appreciated his passion for scuba diving and marine life. Dane and Cynthia made an unforgettable team!

PADI's Open Water course curriculum includes videos, worksheets, quizzes, exams, underwater skills, buoyancy control, navigation, emergency procedures, and equipment management. Upon completion of the four-day course, you'll be able to dive to a maximum depth of 18 m (60 ft).

If shipwreck or night diving appeals to you, sign up for the two-day Advanced Open Water course. You'll build on your recent skills and descend to a maximum depth of 30 m (100 ft). Looking back, I'm glad we completed both courses back-to-back in order to unlock more dive sites around the globe.

Marine Life

The Bay Islands are situated along the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef. The massive corals provide the ultimate habitat for diverse marine species. Visibility depends on the time of year and weather conditions. We had average clarity in October during the middle of the rainy season. Utila is a peaceful and relaxing environment for scuba diving because it typically has low currents and manageable waves.

Brad and I saw moray eels, butterflyfish, stingrays, smooth trunkfish, bioluminescence, string of pearls, pufferfish, lobsters, barracudas, parrotfish, jacks, filefish, Christmas tree worms, and a mesmerizing spotted drum. The Halliburton Shipwreck was also eerily spectacular. If you're lucky, you may even see dolphins and whale sharks!

Roatán

After two weeks in Utila, we rode the ferry to Roatán to explore some more dive sites. Roatán is more expensive and touristy compared to Utila, but our stay in the West End felt low-key. The main road along the stunning beach has boutiques, eateries, bars, dive shops, and supermarkets. Watch out for expensive restaurants, which Brad refers to as land mines, with additional service fees and taxes.

Although we never ventured outside of the West End, colectivos (shared transportation) are available to get around Roatán. Always be sure to negotiate a rate before heading to your destination if you take a taxi. We paid 300 HNL ($12 USD) for a ride from the ferry terminal to our hotel. Some taxis try to charge $30 USD for the same ride!

Restaurants

You don't have to walk far to find a delicious meal in Roatán. A few street food stands set up for dinner along the main road with budget eats. There are plenty of nice restaurants if you don't mind a costly bill. Here are my reasonably priced and hearty picks!

• Brunch - The mouthwatering menu at Sandy Buns Bakery is ideal for breakfast or lunch. The hefty el cochinito (BBQ pork) and buffalo chicken sandwiches with soft homemade rolls oozed with flavor and held us over the whole day! Make sure to try the addictively sticky garlic sweet potato fries and wash everything down with a raspberry iced tea.

• Dinner - Roatán offers a variety of international cuisines including Salvadoran. Devour a plate of papusas (thick corn flour flatbread) stuffed with refried beans and cheese topped with curtido (spicy fermented cabbage slaw) and tomato salsa at Pupuseria Salvadoreña. These papusas were our favorite in Central America!

Native Sons

Brad and I booked a studio apartment at Hotel Chillies across from the beach. The hotel partners with Native Sons dive shop (next door) and gives guests a scuba diving discount. Our dives, including equipment, were $35 USD per person per tank. Snorkel gear is complimentary. Ask for swimming directions to the pier with the yellow submarine. Underneath is a fantastic snorkel spot with angelfish, eels, scorpionfish, urchins, and sea anemones.

The Roatán Marine Park covers eight miles with numerous dive sites. My favorites included Mandy's Eel Garden, Hole in the Wall, and El Aguila Shipwreck. Native Sons dives three times a day at 9:00 AM, 11:00 AM, and 2:00 PM. Staff will help with equipment set-up on the boat before departure. During my first dive I had a sticky regulator and it was quickly swapped out for a new one.

Our divemaster (dive site guide), Allen, was wonderful! He helped me overcome claustrophobia navigating the tight corals (Swiss Cheese) of Hole in the Wall and pointed out unique marine life. We enjoyed identifying fish species in the guide book once we returned off the boat. Overall, our experience was outstanding!

Marine Life

The dive sites around Roatán are amazing! The crystal-clear visibility, gigantic corals, and colorful fish blew Utila out of the water. Scuba diving during low season was a blessing in disguise because we didn't have to compete with other divers at the sites. We felt like we were swimming in a pristine aquarium!

We observed sea turtles, spotted moray eels, scorpionfish, blue tangs, sergeant majors, lionfish, angelfish, garden eels, crabs, shrimps, damselfish, indigo hamlets, groupers, urchins, and so much more! Roatán is worth a trip to see this magical heaven. Don't forget to pack your GoPro, protective case, and lens filters to capture encounters.

In a (Coco) Nut Shell

Learning how to become a scuba diver has its challenges, but a positive attitude and openness to take constructive criticism will guarantee success. Don't get discouraged while training and always be honest with your instructors/divemasters about how you feel (mentally and physically). Consistent dives, additional courses, and buoyancy work will build confidence in the water. The Bay Islands of Utila and Roatán in Honduras offer rookie scuba divers a wonderful environment to try this rewarding adventure sport.

Scuba diving transports you to another world, brings mental clarity, and helps you connect to Mother Earth's mysterious realm. Floating above dazzling fish and majestic corals while breathing underwater is simply indescribable. Once you experience the ocean via scuba diving, you'll probably be hooked for life!