The Maya Sculptural Splendor of Copán Ruins

As my eyes look upward along the monolithic sculptures at the ancient Maya site of Copán, I can't help but feel awestruck. The mysterious divinity of the Maya kings seems to radiate through the weathered stone. Admirers are made to feel small by the spacial separation and towering gazes, which reinforce the godlike status of these rulers. Power is expressed with stoic expressions, ornate symmetry, and elaborate regalia.

Copán exemplifies the artistic magnificence of the Maya realm with its commemorative stelae, stucco façades, glyphs, and altars. For this reason, Copán joins Tikal (grand pyramids) and Palenque (limestone reliefs) to form the triad of supreme Maya sites. Below I cover temple highlights, helpful tips, and a bit of history to make your visit to this magical place unforgettable!

History

Copán's origins can be traced as far back as the 9th Century BC, with agricultural settlements flourishing in the fertile river valley of present-day Honduras. Archaeologists have yet to paint a clear picture of the period leading up to the reemergence of Copán in the 5th Century AD. In 426 AD, Tikal organized a takeover of Copán and installed K'inich Yak K'uk' Mo' upon the throne. Soon after, Copán became one of the most influential cities in the southern Maya region.

The dynasty of K'inich Yak K'uk' Mo' governed for four centuries and included 16 kings. His son, K'inich Popol Hol, redesigned the layout of Copán with several construction projects including a ball court with carvings of macaws. Chan Imix K'awiil, the 12th dynastic ruler, reigned between 628-695 AD. He oversaw extensive monument production and temple upgrades nearby the Great Plaza during his 67 years on the throne.

Chan Imix K'awiil's successor, Uaxaclajuun Ub'aah K'awiil, witnessed a dramatic shift towards flamboyant in-the-round (three dimensional) sculpture. Up until 736 AD, he commissioned several stelae which reflect the peak of Maya artistic achievement. These sculptures feature red paint, zoomorphic figures, and intricate cartouches with glyphs.

Unfortunately, Uaxaclajuun Ub'aah K'awiil's contribution was rewarded with the betrayal of his vassal state of Quiriguá. In 738 AD, K'ak' Tiliw Chan Yopaat captured and beheaded the Copán ruler resulting in a halt of construction projects for the next 17 years.

An era of renewal was ushered in by the 15th dynastic ruler, Ajaw K'ak' Yipyaj Chan K'awiil. He upgraded the remarkable Hieroglyphic Stairway (the longest inscribed text at any Maya site) by doubling its length and installing five life-sized seated kings.

Despite Ajaw K'ak' Yipyaj Chan K'awiil's efforts, Copán slowly declined due to overpopulation, drought, inadequate resources, and disease. In 822 AD, Copán's last known king, Ukit Took', ascended the throne. The sudden abandonment of the city took place during the 9th Century AD.

The Copán Complex

More than 27,000 people inhabited Copán at its height during the end of the 8th Century AD. Approximately 3,400 structures have been discovered within the 43.5 sq km (27 sq mi) zone outside of the Principal Group, the main complex of Copán. If you desire to explore residential areas, check out the excavations at Las Sepulturas about 2 km (1.25 mi) away (included with your ticket). The Principal Group, built for the high nobility, includes the areas listed below.

Great Plaza

Religious ceremonies, games, and public events were held in the central plaza. The impressive ball court (731 AD), near the southern end, is the second largest in Central America. Beautifully carved macaw heads line the top of the sloping walls. Climb the stairs to get a prime perspective and imagine being a cheering spectator!

The star attraction of Copán is undoubtedly its spectacular stelae depicting Maya rulers. The finest stone sculptures were created between 613-738 AD. Whimsical details cover every inch and show the expert level of craftsmanship in the Maya realm, specifically Copán. Sacrifices and offerings were often placed in vaults underneath or alongside the stelae.

These high relief portraits range between 3-5 m (9.8-16.4 ft) in size! The fronts depict Maya kings in full regalia to emphasize their status amongst the gods. On the backs and sides are often glyphs describing each ruler's accomplishments, lineage, and divine power. These monuments are a testament to the importance of this lost civilization.

Acropolis

North of the central plaza is the Acropolis consisting of temples, palaces, and tombs decorated with stucco and sculptures. Pyramids with wide steps border an open courtyard which functions as a water reservoir. The area is divided between eastern and western courts. Underneath the Acropolis are tunnels with five main construction phases spanning two centuries. The Rosalila and Los Jaguares tunnels are typically open to the public, but were unfortunately closed at the time of my visit.

Temple 11 was built as a gateway to the underworld by the 16th dynastic ruler of Copán, Yax Pasaj Chan Yopaat. Carved monkeys with menacing faces hold torches on the lower levels. The glyphs describe sacred rites and allude to the temple's religious function. Temple 16 contains a colorful treasure beneath its weathered stones. The Rosalila Temple (Temple of the Sun) is a pristine stucco building with brilliant shades of red, green, and yellow. A full-scale replica is at the on-site Sculpture Museum.

Hieroglyphic Staircase

One of the most striking works of Maya art is the Hieroglyphic Staircase on the west side of Temple 26. The embellished stairway, constructed in 710 AD by Uaxaclajuun Ub'aah K'awiil, consists of approximately 2,000 separate stone glyphs positioned on 63 steps. It's the largest Maya hieroglyphic inscription found and explains the dynastic history of Copán. Along the 10 m (33 ft) wide, 20 m (66 ft) high staircase are five prominent rulers.

Sculpture Museum

Don't skip the Sculpture Museum full of altars, unique artifacts, and reconstructed friezes found throughout Copán. Some of the altars and stelae around the main complex are actually replicas with the originals at the museum. Notable pieces include Stela A and Altar Q.

Stela A portrays the 13th dynastic ruler, Uaxaclajuun Ub'aah K'awiil, carrying a two-headed serpent bar which is symbolically giving birth to sun deities. Serpents adorn his headdress while small figures crouch next to his feet. Altar Q, originally located at the base of Temple 16, shows the succession of Copán's 16 dynastic kings. Each Maya ruler is sitting upon his own glyph. The founder of the dynasty, K'inich Yak K'uk' Mo', passes the scepter of power to Yax Pasaj Chan Yopaat, the last ruler of the dynasty.

A true-to-scale replica of the Rosalila Temple is at the center of the museum. The temple represents the sacred mountain of creation and honors K'inich Yak K'uk' Mo' who is depicted as a winged deity on the lower levels. Maya constellations are painted on the corners of the roof crest.

What to Expect Upon Arrival

Copán Ruinas, named after the Maya site, is a pleasant town to base yourself in to explore the archaeological ruins. A walking path leads straight to the main complex, but tuk tuks are available if you prefer a ride. A few placards are scattered throughout the site, but not enough to make it DIY friendly. Prepare ahead of time with insightful documentaries or articles.

The main complex is open every day, 8:00 AM-5:00 PM, and tickets cost 389 HNL ($15 USD) per person. Tickets to the Sculpture Museum cost 182 HNL ($7 USD) per person. Tickets to the Rosalila and Los Jaguares tunnels cost 389 HNL ($15 USD) per person. Cash and credit cards are accepted. You can hire English and Spanish speaking guides next to the ticket booth.

Helpful Tips

Crowds aren't a problem at Copán and any day/time is perfect for a visit. Brad and I spent five hours touring the main complex and museum. Same-day reentry is permitted. Copán is a small site with a variety of wildlife. Be on the lookout for Scarlet Macaws, Montezuma Oropendolas, lizards, and deer.

The on-site restaurant serves hot food, drinks, and snacks. Bathrooms are located at the main entrance and ticket office. Bring a waterproof jacket if you're planning to visit during the rainy season (May-October). The uneven terrain is slippery when wet, so wear a reliable pair of shoes. There are plenty of shady spots to relax if you need a break from the sunshine.

Final Thoughts

The dynamic sculptures of Copán mirror its interesting history. The imaginative beauty of the Maya empire is encapsulated in the one-of-a-kind stelae, thousands of glyphs, and stone structures. Allegorical motifs combined with the human form create a parallel display of wonder and myth. To behold the efforts of these skillful artists within the lush rainforest is a marvelous experience!