Acatenango and Fuego Volcanoes: Overnight Hike with OX Expeditions

Ready to gear up for a challenging hike up two majestic volcanoes in Guatemala? Travelers from all over the globe put their physical endurance and mental fortitude to the test to experience this ultimate adventure in Central America. Although widely popular, this activity is not for the faint of heart. A gloriously epic payoff awaits if you're willing to face aching muscles, unpredictable weather, and a restless night!

Brad and I never questioned our decision to get up close to Acatenango and Fuego Volcanoes. The chance to see and feel a powerful volcanic eruption from a safe distance is a memorable addition to any bucket list! Our only pressing questions were when to pull the trigger and which tour operator would show us the way. After acclimating to the altitude in Antigua, we knew it was time to commit.

OX Expeditions

There are numerous tour operators in Antigua with varying price points. OX Expeditions falls on the mid-high scale in terms of cost and we felt the professional company was worth every penny. The informative website answered all of our questions about gear, prices, food, and timelines. We even scored a 10% discount after an email inquiry!

Hiking a volcano, let alone two, is very dangerous and it's important to do your research. Booking the Acatenango Volcano Overnight Hike with OX Expeditions was an easy decision for us. Local guides have been safely guiding groups since 2004, which helps with peace of mind.

Cost Breakdown

Whether you choose to book online or onsite, a deposit of $29 USD per person is required. The remaining $70 USD is due the night before at the pre-hike meeting. If you want to do the Double Whammy (supplemental night hike to Fuego Volcano from base camp), it's an additional cost of $40 USD per person. Last minute decisions are allowed and participants can pay this portion upon return to Antigua.

Fortunately, Brad and I were up for the side quest to Fuego Volcano after reaching base camp. Skipping it would've been a huge regret! The total cost for the Acatenango Volcano Overnight Hike with Fuego Volcano (Double Whammy) through OX Expeditions is $139 USD per person. Entrance fees to the park aren't included and cash only. Be sure to bring 100 GTQ ($13 USD) per person.

Porters are available for hire to carry your bags to/from base camp. Brad and I opted for our 40L backpack to be hauled one way for 200 GTQ ($26 USD) plus tip. Employing a porter supports the local community, which partly depends on income from tourism. Not only will you save energy for the trek, but also help Guatemalan families.

Walking sticks can be rented at the start of the hike for 5 GTQ ($0.64 USD). Our wooden companions were invaluable as we traversed steep inclines and declines covered in loose gravel. I highly recommend using one or two depending on your preference.

Extra money is also handy if you want to buy water or snacks on the trail. I heard stories of hikers forgetting eye glasses and cell phones at rest areas. Expect to give a big tip if you want a guide/porter to hunt down your lost property!

Pre-Trip Meeting

Get your head in the game with the pre-trip meeting (5:00-6:30 PM) the night before your adventure at the OX Expeditions headquarters in downtown Antigua. You'll meet fellow hikers, go over the two-day itinerary, and be able to ask any remaining questions.

Our lead guide, Chino, covered terrain, elevation changes, altitude sickness, kilometers, weather, gear, safety protocols, food, water, camp, sleep conditions, and risks. All questions and concerns were answered after we signed the waiver full of extensive terms and conditions. Goodbye liability!

A portion of the overall experience is contingent on the weather. Be prepared for a variety of microclimates and temperatures. The rainy season (May-October) doesn't guarantee crystal-clear views. We faced mist, rain, lightning, and sunshine during our two-day hike in September 2022. Put aside expectations/anxieties and leave the rest to Mother Earth.

Preparation

Antigua has an elevation of 1,545 m (5,069 ft). If travel plans allow, try to acclimate yourself to the altitude a few days before the trek. Hiking skills are a plus, but not necessary. My advice is to be physically and mentally fit. A positive attitude and the will to achieve the unthinkable is a recipe for success. You'll reach an elevation of 3,976 m (13,044 ft) at the summit of Acatenango Volcano!

Our group varied in age (late 20s to early 50s) and expertise. The eldest woman was an inspiration to us all as she reached the summit with a huge smile on her face. Age is just a number! Hydrate with plenty of water and eat meals rich in carbohydrates the day before the trek. Be sure to stretch and get as much sleep as possible.

Clothing

OX Expeditions provides a variety of gear such as fleeces, jackets, gloves, backpacks, ponchos, hats, and headlamps. The gear is distributed on the first day of the trek, so get to headquarters early in the morning for the best selection. We borrowed wool gloves, winter jackets, and a headlamp, but decided to buy our own hats from the outdoor vendors next to the Antigua Central Market.

Besides two sports bras, Brad and I each wore the following clothing items:

Food & Drinks

A vital part of the journey is nourishment. You'll be burning a ton of calories! Stick with foods that will fuel your body with the energy it needs to keep up. We bought all of our snacks/drinks at the La Bodegona grocery store (only a few blocks away from the OX Expeditions headquarters).

Brad and I packed the following items to share:

OX Expeditions supplies four meals. On the first day, you'll have a traditional breakfast of coffee/tea, scrambled eggs, beans, plantains, and tortillas at a local restaurant. A filling meat or vegetarian pizza sandwich is provided for lunch. Pasta with a vegetable tomato sauce is served for dinner along with red wine. On the second day, you'll have bagels, banana bread, cream cheese, jam, Nutella, and coffee. I was pretty impressed with the spread considering we were camping on the side of a volcano!

Packing

Brad and I were able to combine our clothes, food, water, and miscellaneous gear into my The North Face 40L Solaris backpack. We also took a share of the community food to haul up along with our sandwiches for lunch. Our other backpack, the Peak Design 15L Everyday Zip, carried our Canon camera, GoPro, waterproof cover, and wallet. We also stuffed some snacks, hand sanitizer, and toilet paper inside.

Additional essentials included Advil, Pepto-Bismol, chapstick, toothbrushes, toothpaste, paper towels, headlamps with extra batteries, sunscreen, deodorant, sunglasses, dry bags, earplugs, and eyedrops. Please take out what you take in and leave no trace, including biodegradable food which can harm wildlife.

Day 1

Brad and I arrived at the OX Expeditions headquarters at 6:30 AM sharp to pick out our jackets and gloves. Once everyone finished packing, we loaded into three shuttles and drove to the breakfast restaurant at 7:30 AM. The shuttles arrived in La Soledad, our starting point for the hike, around 9:45 AM. We handed off our 40L backpack to a porter before renting a couple of walking sticks. Willy, the assistant guide, joined us at the trailhead.

Farmland Area

The hike began at 10:00 AM through the Farmland Area. The steep incline (considered a warmup) was full of slippery loose soil. My breathing and heart rate increased while my legs adjusted to the difficult terrain. Keep comfortable with moisture-wicking layers. My rain jacket quickly came off as my brow started to glisten with sweat. I was happy with my decision to start the hike wearing shorts and a t-shirt!

After 30 minutes, Brad and I arrived at the first checkpoint, used the bathroom, and rested for 20 minutes. Our group hiked another 40 minutes to the registration area where we paid the park entrance fee. We covered a distance of 1.7 km (1.05 mi) with an elevation gain of 370 m (1,214 ft). Morale was high!

Cloud Forest Area

Exhaustion was creeping into all of our psyches after several harrowing switchbacks. Chino sensed approaching rain and stopped the group at a sheltered rest area for lunch. We all scarfed down the pizza sandwiches in momentary silence. Since the temperature was cooling down, Brad and I changed into our hiking pants and rain jackets behind a shed. After a quick visit to the outhouse, we were ready to head out. At this point, we reached an elevation gain of 3,000 m (9,843 ft).

Alpine Area

Traversing the Alpine Area was eerily beautiful. A thick mist hovered in the air obscuring our view of the surrounding pines. Lush ferns, yellow flowers, and intricate mosses covered the landscape. Chino's weather prediction came true around 1:30 PM. However, the light rain couldn't wipe the smiles off our faces! The steep trail eased up with a few flat sections. Camp came into view around 3:00 PM, followed by a wave of excitement. We covered a total distance of 12.1 km (7.5 mi) and reached an elevation of 3,550 m (11,647 ft) in five hours!

Base Camp

Ominous storm clouds quickly approached as we got our bearings. Everyone scurried with their backpacks to claim a spot inside of the cabins. Each shelter was equipped with six sleeping bags, mats, and pillows. As the thunder and lightning rattled above camp, a wave of relief hit us knowing we were going to sleep comfortably within a cabin instead of a tent.

The next big decision was whether to make the 9.1 km (5.65 mi) round-trip trek to Fuego Volcano (Double Whammy). My jello legs protested, but my resolve never wavered. I was going to get as close as I could to a volcanic eruption no matter what! Chino delayed our hike by one hour because of a thunderstorm and I was grateful for the extra rest. About 75% of our group decided to forgo the warm campfire for the chance to see lava erupt from the depths of Mother Earth.

Fuego Ridge aka Double Whammy

Just a few minutes into the trek to Fuego Volcano, I had to plead with my sore muscles to remember my earlier rhythm. The walking stick was my saving grace as I navigated the steep decline to the bottom of the ravine. The rain was creating narrow trenches of loose gravel and slippery mud. I braced for impact at least twice as I fell on my butt. I carefully mirrored Brad's steps ahead of me to reduce the chance of another humbling slip.

Looking at our upcoming ascent to the peak of the ridge was daunting. After a 10 minute break to remove irritating tiny pebbles from our shoes and hydrate, we slowly made our way up. While my quads screamed in agony over boulders and clumps of long grass, I prayed for Fuego Volcano to reward our passage with splendid views.

The fierce wind at the top pierced straight to my bones. With chattering teeth and frozen hands, I looked towards the direction of Fuego Volcano and couldn't see anything besides a thick blanket of grey mist. Hope seemed all but lost until the clouds cleared unexpectedly. Disappointed attitudes and sorrowful faces shifted in seconds. Roaring cheers exploded from the group as Fuego Volcano spewed forth its glowing lava in four consecutive eruptions!

Our camaraderie was sealed during the magical moment. Chino's eyes beamed with pride as everyone watched in emotional amazement. Patience paid off! Afterwards, we all activated our headlamps to prepare for our return in the pitch-black darkness. Other hikers with glowing headlamps could be seen in the distance making their way towards our position. Following a quick victory snack of gummy bears, it was time to do the grueling trek in reverse back to base camp.

Rest & Relaxation

The promise of hot pasta, dry clothes, and sleep was the kickstart everyone needed. Dinner was ready by the time we all reached camp at 9:00 PM. Brad and I sat down at the picnic table and dug in. I barely had the strength to lift my fork since I was so exhausted. We quickly brushed our teeth and changed clothes before heading to bed. Our spirits were high after completing day one!

Unfortunately, a solid sleep wasn't in the cards and I had a restless night due to the ravaging cold. My sleeping bag was located next to the drafty cabin door. I tried my best to wrap extra clothes around me to keep warm, but to no avail. I must've slept a bit because I awoke to the sound of my 3:00 AM alarm with a bit of drool on my face.

Day 2

The red glow of Brad's headlamp helped us get ready in the spooky darkness. We could hear Fuego Volcano erupting in the distance, but couldn't see it from our spot in the cabin. Our four other roommates hit the snooze button before emerging from their cozy cocoons. We left our 40L backpack inside and prepared our 15L backpack for the sunrise trek. I quickly brushed my teeth, washed my face, and used the bathroom before it was time to make the final push to the summit of Acatenango Volcano.

Acatenango Summit

Our sleepy group promptly left camp at 3:30 AM. The sound of volcanic rocks crunching beneath our boots created a metronome for us to follow as we proceeded single file up the steep face illuminated only by our headlamps. I pulled off to the side of the trail numerous times to catch my breath as I felt the altitude. Eventually, I shortened my steps to accommodate my desperate lungs.

My mind took control and simplified the process. Left foot. Right foot. Repeat. Inhale. Exhale. Repeat. The physical mantra was working. As the distance between Brad and I grew, I motioned for him to continue on without worry. There was no doubt in my mind I would make it to the summit. Feeling my feet sink beneath the dusty gravel was metaphorical. Acatenango Volcano could defeat you with a single step, but only if you failed the psychological test.

A quick glance up to the top ushered in a wave of introspection. With only 200 m (656 ft) left, I instinctively turned around and stopped in my tracks. The sky was waking up with rich hues of indigo and orange. A blanket of pillowy clouds stretched out before me as I marveled at Agua Volcano towering over the glittering cities in the valley below.

The sheer magnificence of the scorching sunrise will live in my memory forever. Walking towards Brad at the summit was one of the happiest moments in my life. To be on top of the world with my soulmate was a tremendous feeling. In that instant, I knew love was an infinite force transcending time and space.

Mesmerizing views were enhanced with the clockwork eruptions of Fuego Volcano every 20 minutes. Lava and smoke spewed into the atmosphere with intense force. From an elevation of 3,976 m (13,044 ft), we were able to see from a rare perspective. The joy was palpable after our strenuous 4.1 km (2.55 mi) climb to the summit. Frigid winds and hungry bellies didn't seem to matter as we all marveled at the grandeur of Mother Earth.

Descent

After approximately 45 minutes at the top, our group began the 16.19 km (10.06 mi) descent of Acatenango Volcano. Everyone made it back to base camp for breakfast by 7:30 AM. Sitting around the campfire with a hot cup of joe in hand was absolute perfection. We all munched on bagels and banana bread to fuel the climb down. The hardest part of the journey was behind us!

Sunshine warmed the crisp morning air as we packed our bags and cleared the cabins. Brad carried the 40L backpack while I took the 15L backpack. Fortunately, we ate and drank most of the weight so our shoulders didn't have too much to handle. The temperature increased as we entered the Cloud Forest Area. Brilliant shades of green highlighted by rays of light surrounded the trail.

Since we no longer had to conserve our breath, Brad and I exchanged travel stories with several new friends. We only stopped a couple of times to hydrate and eat snacks. Every so often we would take off another layer of clothing. With a moderate pace, our group reached the trailhead by 11:45 AM.

Farewell

Upon arrival at the OX Expeditions headquarters in Antigua, we unloaded our trash and returned our borrowed gear. A few of us swapped contact information, pictures, and video clips. The awesome attitudes, chill vibes, and laid-back personalities really enhanced the experience. Brad and I shook hands with Chino and Willy while thanking them for the amazing adventure. Their hard work, attention to safety, and positive reinforcement made the hike a success for all involved. These men are rockstars!

After a relaxing hot shower, I climbed into bed with every intention of moving as little as possible. To celebrate our achievement, Brad and I ordered a large pizza and snuggled with our cat roommate, Yala. The next day, we pampered ourselves with a couples massage at a luxurious spa.

Final Thoughts

Although we didn't get altitude sickness, Brad suffered a headache after completing the Double Whammy. One hiker opted to skip the summit trek to Acatenango Volcano while another had to turn back due to exhaustion. Pay attention to your limits to avoid a serious accident.

Brad and I thought the night trek to Fuego Volcano was the toughest and greatest part of the two-day journey. Chino later told us our group was the only one to see eruptions that evening. Unfortunately, the other groups didn't have any visibility due to the inclement weather. A perfect view requires a bit of luck and is never promised.

The overnight hike to Acatenango and Fuego Volcanoes with OX Expeditions was the hardest thing I've ever done. Reaching the summit was a monumental and pivotal moment in my life. To witness the volcanic power of Mother Earth was invigorating. Not only was this hike a highlight of our stay in Guatemala, but one of our favorite travel crusades to date!