A Visitor's Guide to Angkor Wat in Cambodia

The iconic Hindu-Buddhist temple complex of Angkor Wat is a treasure trove of impressive stone gates with serene faces, ornate low relief panels depicting epic battles, and dark overgrown corridors nestled in sunlit jungle. The architectural splendor and remarkable engineering showcase the rich legacy of the ancient Khmer Empire (802-1431 AD) in Cambodia.

Brad and I couldn't wait to explore this bucket list destination during our travels in Southeast Asia! Cruising around on a tuk tuk for three days to see the elaborate red sandstone carvings of Banteay Srei and legendary structures along the Small and Big Circuits was a blast!

Whether you take a guided tour or plan a DIY adventure, the archaeological site is easy to navigate. Below I cover logistics, ticket information, helpful tips, and a bit of history to make your trip to Angkor Wat unforgettable!

Siem Reap

The best time to visit Angkor Wat is during the months of December and January when the weather is sunny and dry. Plan excursions as early as possible since scorching afternoons are typical. The shoulder months of November and February are also favorable if you don't mind the occasional rain shower.

Base yourself in Siem Reap to access the numerous temples north of the city. Brad and I flew into the new Siem Reap Angkor International Airport (SAI) from Luang Prabang, Laos. We arranged a private car ($30 USD) to take us directly to our hotel, but Grab (similar to Uber/Lyft), taxis, and round-trip airport shuttles ($10 USD) to/from the CDF Angkor Duty Free Store are also available.

Siem Reap has a variety of hotels, restaurants, grocery stores, bars, and shops. Check out the Old Market for a maze of souvenirs including antiques, t-shirts, bronze statues, jewelry, and artwork. Afterwards, purchase a fresh coconut from one of the street vendors on Pokambor Avenue to sip along the river or head to lively Pub Street for a cold beer. Cambodia accepts US dollars in addition to its national currency; just be aware of the exchange rate in case you receive riels.

Fuel up before and after your excursions with some delicious Cambodian cuisine! Try amok (a creamy national dish usually made with steamed fish, curry spices, coconut milk, and eggs) served in a banana leaf at Khmer Taste Restaurant. The spicy stir-fried yellow noodles with chicken and vegetables at Khmer House Boutique were so simple, yet addictively good. I ordered it three times during my stay at the hotel! The tender chicken satay with peanut sauce, comforting fish amok, and flavorful red curry at The Christa Restaurant and Bar were mouthwatering.

I highly recommend staying at Khmer House Boutique for its central location, friendly staff, refreshing pool, comfortable rooms, and tour packages! Brad and I booked the Small Circuit ($15 USD), Big Circuit with sunset ($21 USD), and Banteay Srei ($25 USD) private tuk tuk tours with the hotel. Tours operate daily and departure times are flexible. English speaking guides are available for an extra fee.

Angkor National Museum

Spend a few hours at the Angkor National Museum to learn about the captivating history and culture of the ancient Khmer Empire. Several galleries feature statues of Buddha in various mudra (symbolic hand gesture) positions, intricate stone lintels with Hindu iconography, artifacts, and engraved Sanskrit tablets with translations. Informative English placards explain influential kings, traditional clothing, engineering plans, religious beliefs, and animal symbolism.

The museum is a worthwhile way to prepare for your visit to the temple complex of Angkor Wat, especially if you plan to go without a guide. Opening hours are every day, 8:30 AM-6:00 PM, and entry is $12 USD per person.

Tickets & Opening Hours

Most of the temples, including Banteay Srei, are open daily between 7:30 AM-5:30 PM. Exceptions include Angkor Wat (5:00 AM), Srah Srang (5:00 AM), Pre Rup (5:00 AM-7:00 PM), and Phnom Bakheng (5:00 AM- 7:00 PM). The aforementioned sites are prime spots to watch the sunrise/sunset.

The easiest way to purchase tickets is via the Angkor Enterprise official website. Remember to download/screenshot your ticket on your phone or print a copy since agents will scan it at various checkpoints. A 1-Day Pass ($37 USD) is valid on the date of entry, 3-Day Pass ($62 USD) is valid for 10 days from the date of entry, and 7-Day Pass ($72 USD) is valid for a month from the date of entry.

After a bit of research, Brad and I decided a 3-Day Pass was right for us. We completed the Small Circuit (red loop) on the first day, Banteay Srei on the second day, and the Big Circuit (green loop) on the third day. We were exhausted by the end! If you only spend a day in the temple complex of Angkor Wat, I recommend prioritizing the Small Circuit for the main attractions. Consider hiring a guide to learn more about the iconography and history.

Tuk Tuks

Riding around in a tuk tuk is a fun way to visit the temples! Feel the breeze in your hair, soak in the surrounding beauty, and give your aching feet a well-deserved break. Renting a bicycle/moped is also possible, but seems too much of a hassle given the size of the complex.

Affordable tuk tuk drivers are abundant in Siem Reap! Plan an itinerary, agree on a price, set a pickup time, and exchange contact information (WhatsApp numbers) for easy communication. Brad and I had countless offers as we walked around the city, but the comparable rates at our hotel were too convenient to pass up. Drivers will wait for you at designated areas while you explore the sites. Express your gratitude with cash tips, snacks, and cold beverages.

Helpful Tips

The temple complex of Angkor Wat is a sacred Hindu-Buddhist site and visitors are required to dress conservatively. Opt for items that cover your shoulders, knees, and chest. Loose and breathable fabrics are crucial to keep you comfortable in the humidity. Durable shoes are a must with all of the walking and climbing!

I recommend bringing sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat. We borrowed an umbrella from our hotel to shield us from the hot sun. There are shady spots within the structures, but prepare to sweat regardless. Hydrate with plenty of water and electrolytes.

There are souvenir vendors, restaurants, snack stalls, and bathrooms along the loops. Some restrooms charge a small fee. Pack tissues and hand sanitizer since toilet paper and soap aren't guaranteed. Carry insect repellent just in case you encounter any pesky mosquitos or flies.

Small Circuit

Kick off your expedition to the temple complex of Angkor Wat with the mighty Small Circuit (red loop). Brad and I departed our hotel bright and early at 7:00 AM to jumpstart our long day. The following sites, in order, took us approximately 10 hours to finish!

Angkor Wat

Built in the early 12th Century, by King Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat was constructed as a Hindu temple and eventual mausoleum. The five lotus peaks emulate Mount Meru, the sacred home of devas (spiritual beings), and are enclosed by rectangular galleries. Whimsical garlands, exquisite pediments, and vaulted colonnades depict religious figures and motifs. A moat protects the sandstone site, which was converted into a Buddhist temple a few decades later.

The outer gallery low reliefs are the most jaw-dropping part of Angkor Wat! These monumental scenes portray Hindu tales from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The northern and southern friezes depict Krishna's victory over Bana and procession of Suryavarman II, respectively. The western frieze shows the Battle of Lanka and Kurukshetra War. Countless soldiers, giant elephants, fast chariots, and snarling lions bring the crusades to life!

The eastern frieze portrays the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. Vishnu, in the center, instructs the opposing malevolent asuras (powerful demigods) and benevolent devas on how to pull the serpent Vasuki back and forth to recover the Amrita, the lost elixir of immortality. Prepare to be amazed by the expert craftsmanship!

South Gate of Angkor Thom

Of the five gates bordering the ancient city of Angkor Thom, the South Gate is the best-preserved with a causeway flanked by balustrades of devas (slender oval eyes) and asuras (scowling faces). Each group holds onto a naga (seven-headed serpent) symbolizing the endless tug of war between good and evil. The four enormous smiling faces of the gate represent Brahma, the Hindu god of creation.

Bayon

Constructed in the early 13th Century, by King Jayavarman VII, Bayon is a beacon of ancient Khmer architecture with a multi-level labyrinth of low reliefs and narrow passageways. The temple layout resembles the center of a mandala (geometric diagram representing the universe in Hinduism and Buddhism). The remaining 173 towering faces will leave you breathless!

Fantastic details are everywhere you look, such as mirroring apsaras (dancers), bejeweled female deities, stoic dvarapalas (male guardians) near entryways, and pillars with floral designs. The inner and outer galleries feature stunning friezes of major events including naval battles, army processions, and religious ceremonies. Overall, Bayon was my favorite!

Ta Keo

Another interpretation of Mount Meru is Ta Keo, which has a five-tiered pyramid base topped with a quincunx of plain towers. Built in the 11th Century, the temple was dedicated to Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction. The eastern gopura (entrance tower) is decorated with swirls of leaves and flowers, which is characteristic of the Khleang style.

Ta Phrom

Let your Lara Croft fantasies come to life at the overgrown Buddhist temple of Ta Phrom! Haphazard rubble, meandering tree roots, and enchanting doorways covered in lichens create a magical setting ripe for imagination. The dazzling imagery is a prime example of the Bayon style, which was popular during the peak of the Khmer Empire.

Meticulous carvings of fierce nagas, ethereal devatas (youthful goddesses in elegant attire), and countless seated figures in prayer await your gaze. Wander along narrow colonnades, open courtyards surrounded by mandapas (pavilions attached to towers), and artistic walls with empty niches while nature slowly devours the masterpiece.

Srah Srang

The rectangular reservoir of Srah Srang was excavated in the 10th Century, but later modified with a terrace during the 13th Century. The perimeter is lined with laterite and sandstone blocks and measures 700 m (2,297 ft) long by 350 m (1,148 ft) wide. Attentive lions flank the steps which lead to platforms with double-sided naga balustrades.

Banteay Kdei

Opposite Srah Srang is the east gate of Banteay Kdei, which has a single tower with four welcoming faces. The grand terrace with lions and nagas funnels visitors into the gopura, which contains a statue of Buddha with a golden sash. Proceed south to enter the Hall of Dancers where duets of playful apsaras adorn the pillars of four adjacent courtyards.

Constructed in the early 13th Century, by King Jayavarman VII, the temple has a mixture of styles. Weathered pediments and defaced Buddha imagery (niches/statues) add to the rustic atmosphere. Poised devatas with triangular headdresses and carved pillar medallions with kissing birds are some of the best highlights.

Banteay Srei

Brad and I decided to split the Small and Big Circuits up with a half-day tour to Banteay Srei. The Hindu temple is renowned as one of the most gorgeous examples of Khmer architecture. Intricate carvings made of red sandstone sparkle in the sunlight and beautifully contrast with the lush green jungle. The unique spiritual ambience is truly astonishing!

The most noteworthy aspect of Banteay Srei is the oversized wavy pediments, which portray mythological scenes with dynamic characters from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Central figures are enlarged to show importance, such as Indra riding Erawan, Shiva with Parvati sitting on Nandi, Narasima (half-man, half-lion) clawing Hiranyakasipu, Valin battling Sugriva, and Lakshmi bathing with elephants.

Built in the 10th Century, by brothers Yajnavaraha and Visnukumara, the temple is dedicated to Shiva and has details reminiscent of the Preah Ko style. Sweeping scrolls of flora and geometric patterns adorn the pillars and lintels. Low reliefs of devatas and armed dvarapalas embellish the walls. Statues of perched human-animal hybrids guard the inner sanctuary. Fierce lions and intimidating five-headed nagas cover the cornices. The eye-catching motifs and state of preservation are unlike anything else at the temple complex of Angkor Wat!

Big Circuit

Wrap up your trip to the temple complex of Angkor Wat with the Big Circuit (green loop) and a sunset! Brad and I left our hotel after lunch to begin our relaxing day. The Big Circuit can be completed in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction; just let your tuk tuk driver know if you have a preference. The following sites, in order, took us approximately 6 hours to finish.

Pre Rup

Switch up your perspective with a seat atop the Hindu temple of Pre Rup! Watchful lions flank the grand staircase which leads to a square platform with five stone towers representing Mount Meru. Look eastward to spot the mountain range of Phnom Kulen and westward to glimpse Angkor Wat rising out of the forest canopy.

Constructed in the 10th Century, by King Rajendravarman, the site is dedicated to Shiva and has a colossal scale. False doorways with modest lintels are surrounded by textured low reliefs of male and female devatas. Explore the outer perimeter to see a lion downspout and elephant sculptures.

East Mebon

Often referred to as the twin of Pre Rup, East Mebon once stood at the center of the East Baray reservoir on an artificial island. Similar to its southern neighbor, the Hindu temple features a quincunx of towers, elephant sculptures, and lintels with religious scenes. Don't be surprised if you feel a bit of déjà vu!

Ta Som

A picture-perfect combination of Bayon and Ta Phrom is the charming Hindu temple of Ta Som! King Jayavarman VII dedicated the site to his late father, King Dharanindravarman II, in the early 13th Century. The east and west gates each have four intact smiling faces on top of cross-shaped gopuras, one of which is partially obscured by thick tree roots. Low reliefs of eroded devatas and pious cross-legged figures decorate the walls and pediments.

The central shrine is enclosed by a square plan of laterite walls and corner pavilions. Two libraries stand on the east side of the single-level courtyard. Some of the ornate devatas have unusual traits, such as turned heads to express movement. Be sure to get up close to the stunning artistry of the four unmounted pediments, which are in the courtyard and by the north/south gopuras.

Neak Pean

Cross a vast murky lagoon of pink lotuses to reach the artificial island temple of Neak Pean, which represents mythical Lake Anavatapta in the Himalayas. The four pools coincide with the elements of nature (Earth, Air, Wind, and Fire) and once featured statues of guardian animals (elephant, bull, horse, and lion). Balaha, a flying white horse, is the only one partially remaining. People suffering from various illnesses bathed in the pools to realign their elements and be cured. The central shrine sits upon a lotus flower platform encircled by intertwining nagas.

Preah Khan

The Hindu-Buddhist temple of Preah Khan is a chaotic playground of dark hallways with crouching apsaras, crumbling roofs, enthralling devatas, and massive carvings of Garuda (Hindu king of the birds). Check every nook and cranny to discover hidden treasures. It's easy to lose your sense of direction, but that's half the fun!

The inner Buddhist sanctuary is surrounded by a rectangular gallery with satellite temples, gopuras, libraries, and colonnaded pavilions. A moat with four causeways (similar in style to the South Gate of Angkor Thom) borders the site, which was built by King Jayavarman VII in the 12th Century. Striking pediments display Hindu scenes, such as Vishnu reclining with Lakshmi, and some of the walls feature repetitive niches of bearded worshippers.

Phnom Bakheng

A proper finale deserves a fiery sunset with hues of yellow, orange, and red! Phnom Bakheng is an epic place to cap off your visit to the temple complex of Angkor Wat. Although impressive in size, the main draw is the view since the site doesn't have a lot of ornamentation. The uphill path leading to the temple takes approximately 20 minutes to complete. Arrive early to secure a front-row seat and expect a large crowd at the summit.

Final Thoughts

The temple complex of Angkor Wat is an enormous undertaking for travelers. You could spend an entire day at each temple and only scratch the surface. The amount of repetitive detail is overwhelming, especially by the end of each day. Even though you may feel exhausted and overheated at times, remember the purpose of your bucket list journey.

The largest religious site in the world is more than just blocks of carved stone in a jungle. It's a multilayered historical account of the ancient Khmer Empire. The culture, traditions, and architecture are not forgotten, but forever kept in a medium that will transcend language and millennia. Until Mother Nature's roots break through and permanently take hold, we have the privilege to gaze upon artistic greatness unmatched by any other structure in Southeast Asia.