Uruguay: Colonia del Sacramento, Montevideo, and Punta del Este

Nestled between Argentina and Brazil along the Atlantic Ocean, Uruguay is often overlooked by travelers in favor of its popular neighbors. Despite its underrated reputation, this small country in South America has a comfortable appeal with its progressive outlook, safe cities, and straightforward attractions. The laid-back atmosphere makes everyone feel welcome.

Brad and I spent two weeks in Uruguay to hunker down for the holidays and recharge after our jam-packed adventures in Patagonia. We based ourselves in Montevideo, a central spot with easy access to Colonia del Sacramento and Punta del Este via public bus. Trying to decide whether Uruguay is worth a trip? Let's find out!

Colonia del Sacramento

Planning to be in Buenos Aires, Argentina? You're in luck! A quick ferry ride via Buquebus or Colonia Express will take you to the picturesque town of Colonia del Sacramento. Start your day trip as early as possible to maximize your time exploring the 17th Century historic quarter full of Portuguese architecture, cobblestone streets, and bountiful bougainvilleas.

Wander the quaint avenues to discover hand-painted tiles, wrought-iron lamps, and artistic details. Calle de Los Suspiros is a beautiful road with cute boutiques, cozy cafés, and mud houses dating back to the 18th Century. Get a sense of colonial life by visiting Casa de Nacarello, a previous residence that features porcelain artifacts, wooden furniture, and a gable roof.

Plaza Mayor is a great place to mingle with craft vendors, rest on a bench, or do some people-watching. Grab a light lunch at Sushi Life Colonia after admiring the nearby Faro de Colonia del Sacramento. The white lighthouse has stunning views of the peninsula at the top. Brad and I sampled two delicious sushi rolls while sipping glasses of intense Tannat, a prevalent wine varietal grown in Uruguay. Cheers!

Keep an eye out for vintage cars and trucks as you search for the perfect souvenir. Common items include flag patches, jewelry, magnets, and stickers. Don't worry about local currency since most shops and restaurants accept credit cards. Summer temperatures can be intense! Drink plenty of water, apply sunscreen, and wear sunglasses to beat the heat.

Colonia del Sacramento was a frequent battleground between the Portuguese and Spanish. Remnants of its tumultuous past are visible at the Bastión de San Miguel and Portón de Campo. The massive fort wall and city gate with drawbridge helped defend the town from surprise attacks. Check out the canons and ruins of the Casa dos Governadores Portugueses within Plaza de Armas to encounter more military history.

Montevideo

The gritty capital of Uruguay doesn't have a whole heck of a lot going on, but that's part of its charm! Most of the dilapidated architecture in the Cuidad Vieja sector is covered in graffiti, rusted signs, and murals. Mornings are eerily quiet while afternoons are lively with musicians and tourists. A day or two is all you need to see the sights, which are mainly notable buildings, plazas, and the Rambla de Montevideo (paved path along the coast for walking/running/biking).

Devour a juicy grilled steak or drink a cold beer after browsing the souvenir stalls in the Mercado del Puerto. If you're in the mood for fresh seafood, walk around the corner to El Chipirón. Brad and I shared a fish empanada, zesty bowl of ceviche, and sautéed fish fillet with garlic and parsley. The flavorful dishes and friendly service were top notch!

The Museo del Carnaval is a wonderful multimedia museum with vibrant costumes, memorabilia, art, photographs, and miniature dioramas. The placards are extremely informative about how Uruguay celebrates Carnival through ancestral traditions, music, theatricality, and characters. Don't miss this cultural hotspot!

Perk up with an afternoon caffeine fix at Cafe La Farmacia. The marble tables, apothecary bottles, and Gothic wood accents create a magical ambience to play cards or take a break. Make sure to try some mouthwatering yo-yo alfajores (soft cookies with a creamy dulce de leche center) while in Uruguay. One side is typically dipped in either chocolate, powdered sugar, or shredded coconut.

Montevideo cranks up the energy on Saturdays! Head to Plaza de la Constitución in the early afternoon to browse tables full of antiques at the Feria de Antiguedades. If you notice people gathering around live music, chances are it's an impromptu candombe performance! Brad and I saw a small troupe with drummers and special characters including La Mama Vieja (matron who wears petticoats and flutters a fan), El Gramillero (healer who holds a cane and bag of herbs), and La Vedette (sensual dancer who dazzles the crowd).

A visit to Montevideo would be incomplete without gazing at the most iconic building in the city! Palacio Salvo, designed by Mario Palanti and completed in 1928, has an eclectic style with a monumental tower. The main entrance has a row of granite columns with ornate bronze capitals depicting marine life. Meander around Plaza Independencia to see the Mausoleo de José Gervasio Artigas and modest Puerta de la Ciudadela.

Punta del Este

The most popular beaches in Uruguay are found in Punta del Este, a premier resort destination with luxury hotels, casinos, and fine dining. Playa Mansa, on the west side of the peninsula, has course golden sand and tame waters for swimming. Families and tourists generally prefer it because there are plenty of lifeguards and vendors.

Playa Brava, which faces the Atlantic Ocean, has soft white sand and rough waves. It's ideal for surfers and couples who want a bit of space. Snap a picture by the famous La Mano sculpture, created by Mario Irarrázabal in 1982. The partially submerged hand symbolizes drowning and warns visitors of the strong currents.

Stop for a bite and refreshing cocktail at Zazú Puerto. The al fresco seating, prime location, and diverse menu impressed us! Our favorite dish was the rich mushroom risotto with filet mignon medallions and Tannat reduction. Afterwards, satisfy your sweet tooth with a heaping ice cream cone at Heladeria Arlecchino. Expect a line of customers and bring cash or a debit card (credit cards aren't accepted here).

The highlight of our day trip was watching several playful sea lions at the fish market next to Puerto de Punta del Este. Local fishermen set up and clean their catch at the marina while gulls and sea lions patiently wait for scraps. I couldn't help but giggle every time the male sea lion jumped up on the concrete ledge! His hefty size, slow waddle, and insatiable appetite captivated a large audience.

Overall Experience

Uruguay is one of the few places in South America where travelers can truly blend in. The vibes are unpretentious, easygoing, and warm. You can walk alongside locals on the streets and observe daily life under the radar. The country doesn't bend over backwards to lure visitors and that's its secret weapon.

If a busy itinerary full of things to do is what you're after, Uruguay may let you down. The main draw is experiencing the dynamic culture, which seamlessly fuses history and modernity. The country doesn't try to be something it's not and that's ultimately where the real beauty lies. So let your curiosity lead the way and take a chance on this underdog, even if it's only for a few days!