Salvador, Bahia: The Capital of Afro-Brazilian Culture

The hypnotizing rhythm of Salvador casts a spell on every traveler who seeks to understand its rare essence. Pastel colonial architecture, pockets of live music, delicious seafood cuisine, and religious festivals set the stage for a one-of-a-kind trip along Brazil's golden coast. The infectious energy, set to the drum cadence of samba reggae, will pulsate not only through your body, but your soul!

Brad and I explored the cobblestone streets and riveting atmosphere of Salvador for five days. Below I've shared a variety of noteworthy things to do and must-try foods to add to your itinerary. The colorful heart of Afro-Brazilian culture is sure to bring a few surprises, so leave some room for spontaneity!

Pelourinho

Founded by Portuguese settlers in 1549, the hilly city is one of the oldest in South America. Its port, overlooking the Bay of All Saints, became a major hub for the European slave trade. Over a million Africans were brought to the state of Bahia to work in sugarcane and tobacco fields, which led to an influx of wealth in the region.

Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, was the location of the first slave market in the Americas. Slaves were publicly humiliated and beaten against a permanent pillory (whipping post) for transgressions in the main plaza. Disease outbreaks, malnutrition, intense labor, and violence also affected physical and mental health. It's hard to imagine the inhumane conditions in this picturesque place today.

Despite the horrendous circumstances, African slaves continued to practice their traditions and customs in new ways, such as Candomblé (synthetic religion of Catholicism and ancestral deities called Orixás) and capoeira (acrobatic martial art with music). Once Brazil officially abolished slavery in 1888, generations of Afro-Brazilians were plunged into a segregated society with numerous obstacles, including racial discrimination and economic disparity.

Salvador's dark history doesn't define its current outlook. Descendants have a deep sense of pride for their home and culture. Nowadays, Pelourinho is a tourist hotspot with eclectic boutiques, al fresco restaurants, and Baroque churches. Sip a refreshing coconut limeade or take a shot of infused cachaça (sugarcane liquor) at O Cravinho while you admire the charming ambience full of colonial architecture and murals.

One of the symbols of Salvador is the baiana, a woman who wears a hoop skirt, headscarf, beaded necklaces, and lace fabrics. The first baianas were enslaved African women who sold acarajé (black-eyed pea fritters stuffed with shrimp and vegetables) on the streets to buy their freedom. Acarajé is now a popular staple of Afro-Brazilian cuisine with several recipes found all over the city.

Salvador is a great place to experience Carnival, a festive holiday which begins the week before Ash Wednesday. Fortunately, most troupes and percussion schools practice their routes and arrangements throughout the year. Brad and I witnessed a small parade of giant papier-mâché bonecos (puppets) and musicians making its way around Pelourinho. The cheerful energy was intoxicating!

Casa do Carnaval da Bahia

Thousands of people from all over the world head to Brazil every year to celebrate Carnival. Learn about Salvador's unique traditions and events with a quick tour of the Bahia Carnival House. The multimedia museum has displays of extravagant costumes, miniature replicas of parade participants, and memorabilia. Videos and interactive spaces bring the party to life! Tickets cost $3.50 USD per person and opening hours are Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00 AM-5:00 PM.

Mercado Modelo

Salvador is divided into two parts by a steep escarpment: Cidade Alta (Upper City) and Cidade Baixa (Lower City). The upper city is an affluent residential area with restored houses while the lower city has commercial buildings and port access. The Elevador Lacerda, a prominent landmark, is the quickest way to travel between neighborhoods. The main attraction in Cidade Baixa is Modelo Market, which has two floors with hundreds of vendor stalls. The bountiful aisles are full of handicrafts, canvas paintings, clothing, and bottles of cachaça.

Moqueca

Salvador is an oasis of Afro-Brazilian flavors and ingredients! Rally your tastebuds for a hearty feast of moqueca (seafood stew made with tomatoes, onions, peppers, cilantro, coconut milk, palm oil, lime, and garlic). Sides typically include white rice, black-eyed peas, farofa (toasted cassava flour), and pirão (creamy cassava porridge). I highly recommend the shrimp moqueca at Ré Restaurante Dona Suzana and crab moqueca at Boteco do Pelourinho. Both spots have amazing vibes and friendly service!

Igreja e Convento de São Francisco

Completed during the 18th Century, the Church and Convent of Saint Francis is a magnificent sight to behold! Approximately 55,000 hand-painted azulejos (blue/white tiles) imported from Portugal cover the walls with intricate allegorical scenes. The awe-inspiring complex is a maze of Baroque decoration with gilded accents, ornate ceilings, and religious artifacts. Opening hours are every day, 9:00 AM-5:30 PM, and tickets cost $2.50 USD per person.

Rua Direita de Santo Antônio

An explosion of beautiful architecture awaits on Saint Anthony Road! Every dreamy step leads to vibrant façades with pops of white stucco, artistic wrought-iron window guards, funky murals, and cute shop signs. Pink bougainvilleas, palm trees, and hibiscus flowers sway in the breeze along the sidewalks. Don't miss this special road, which ranks as one of my all-time favorites in the world!

Balé Folclórico da Bahia

One of the best ways to appreciate and understand Afro-Brazilian culture is with a spectacular night at the Bahia Folk Ballet. Musicians and dancers perform five different acts: Panteão dos Orixás (African gods/goddesses creation myth), Puxada de Rede (morning prayer by fishermen and their wives to Iemanjá), Maculelê (celebration of good sugarcane harvest), Capoeira (spiritual fight), and Samba de Roda (early form of Brazilian samba). Tickets cost $17 USD per person and shows are held on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 7:00 PM.

Museu Náutico da Bahia - Farol da Barra

Channel your inner sailor and look for ships on the horizon at the Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra. The fort, built to guard the Bay of All Saints in 1702, contains the Bahia Nautical Museum and Barra Lighthouse. Bilingual placards provide insight into maritime history and culture. The main exhibit features underwater artifacts, such as pottery, recovered from the Santíssimo Sacramento shipwreck. Climb the spiral staircase of the lighthouse for stunning views of the coastline. Afterwards, enjoy a golden sunset with locals on the nearby rocks.

Igreja Nosso Senhor do Bonfim

The Church of Our Lord of Bonfim, constructed during the 18th Century, is famous for its front gate full of colorful fitas. Each magical ribbon holds the power to fulfill three wishes, represented by three knots, when it breaks. The ribbons are a religious symbol of Salvador and popular souvenir for tourists. Head to the church in the late afternoon for the best lighting and have fun taking photos against the whimsical backdrop!

Casa de Iemanjá

Iemanjá, one of the seven Orixás, is a sea goddess known for her protection over fishermen and sailors. Often depicted as a mermaid via statues and murals, she represents the power of womanhood (fertility and family). Her permanent altar next to Praia do Rio Vermelho is decorated with flowers, candles, mirrors, cosmetics, perfume, and seashells.

In Salvador, on February 2nd, an annual festival is held in her honor. Most attendees wear blue and white to show their devotion. A fireworks display kicks off the celebration at dawn. Baskets of offerings are brought down to the beach to be blessed and taken out to sea by boats in the afternoon. If Iemanjá is unhappy with your gift, she will return it to shore and withhold her blessing.

Final Thoughts

Salvador is a wonderful city to visit, however, it has a reputation for opportunistic pickpockets, gang violence, and drug problems. Phones are a prime target, especially during crowded festivals. A good rule of thumb is to always avoid dark and vacant streets. Uber is a cheap, reliable, and stress-free way to safely reach different parts of the city.

Brad and I never experienced any safety issues in the main tourist zones. There are a handful of sketchy characters that hang around Pelourinho, so trust your gut if something seems off. Police officers actively patrol the streets during the day. Despite the effective deterrent, we kept a watchful eye whenever we took pictures with our phones and camera. A heightened sense of awareness will help ensure you have a safe and pleasant trip.

Salvador is an incredible place worthy of your South America bucket list. This inviting beacon of Afro-Brazilian heritage effortlessly fuses the past and present to create a jovial atmosphere. Travelers are encouraged to partake in the culture and connect with locals. I fell in love with this city the moment a kind stranger taught me how to samba while enjoying the buzz of a few caipirinhas. So let go of any inhibitions and make memories that will last a lifetime!