Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Take It or Leave It

I may get some flack for this opinion, but Rio de Janeiro is a city you should think twice about visiting. Despite its glorious natural beauty from above with Christ the Redeemer overlooking the residents below, contrasting wealthy and impoverished neighborhoods hint at a different reality. Safety concerns, dilapidated buildings, beaches overflowing with garbage, and crowded tourist attractions are unfortunately now the norm.

Regardless of the traveler warnings and current issues, Brad and I couldn't leave South America without seeing this city for ourselves. We spent four days in Rio de Janeiro exploring the major sights and hanging out at the famous beaches. Below I share my perspective and experience to help you decide whether to invest your time, money, and energy in this iconic place!

First Impressions

After enjoying a relaxing weekend in Ouro Prêto, Brad and I took a nine-hour bus ride to Rio de Janeiro. Upon arrival at the lively bus terminal, we grabbed our carry-on suitcase and called an Uber to our hotel along Ipanema Beach. I couldn't help but notice run down buildings, graffiti, and dirty streets as we made our way in the unsightly darkness.

Once we settled into our room, it was time to find some dinner. The smell of urine on the sidewalk was revolting, but not as unsettling as the fist fight we witnessed across the street from our hotel next to Praia do Arpoador. We thought booking a nice place with a prime location would be worth the splurge. However, the area felt like a bizarre nightmare with sleeping bums and drunk tourists, one of which we observed relieving himself on a tree. This was supposed to be one of the affluent neighborhoods in Rio de Janeiro!

Safety Concerns

Before committing to a visit, I joined Facebook groups, talked to friends, and scoured the internet for guidance. Safety is a huge concern for locals and tourists, especially aggravated robbery, pickpocketing, gang violence in the favelas (impoverished slums), drug trafficking, and car theft. The amount of horrible stories I read put my stomach in knots. My anxiety began to intensify as I was planning our itinerary. How were we supposed to enjoy a trip while being on high alert?

Although we saw a decent amount of police officers and squad cars, Brad and I avoided staying out late to be extra cautious. A recent problem in the Lapa neighborhood is tourists getting drugged with Scopolamine at bars and later robbed due to their incapacitation. If you do decide to experience nightlife in Rio de Janeiro, try to go out with a group and trust your gut if something seems off. Safety in numbers!

Perhaps the most common places to encounter an opportunistic criminal is at Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches. Always keep an eye on your belongings and avoid bringing anything valuable such as designer sunglasses, new iPhones, credit cards, passports, and jewelry. Ask a fellow tourist or friendly Carioca (resident/native of Rio de Janeiro) to watch your stuff while you take a dip in the ocean.

If you do need to use your phone or take a picture, do it quickly and discreetly. A constant stream of food and merchandise vendors walk the sand. A common tactic is for a vendor to distract a potential customer while another snatches his/her property. We saw a group of obnoxious boys lifting up towels and watching prospective targets who were unaware of their surroundings. Thankfully, nothing happened, but it wasn't a relaxing environment. Whenever Brad and I went to the beach, we only took a small amount of cash, water, snacks, towels, and our room key.

Carnival, one of the biggest festivals in the world, is hosted in Rio de Janeiro every year for a week leading up to Ash Wednesday. Colorful floats, musical parades, samba dancers, and blocos (street parties) entice tourists to join in the fun. Initially, Brad and I wanted to partake in Carnival, but realized the massive crowds and constant commotion wasn't our style. Crime rates also increase during this time, so be extra careful!

Helpful Tips

To avoid becoming a prime target, we decided to leave our Canon camera behind for our trip to Rio de Janeiro. Taking pictures is a huge part of our travels, but we didn't want to risk losing it for the rest of our adventures in South America. Instead, we used my iPhone 15 Pro to capture memories. We also wiped it of sensitive apps and information just in case. Brad's iPhone 11 was our backup, which we left behind in the hotel safe every day.

I recommend wearing laid-back clothing and inexpensive costume jewelry while exploring the city. Avoid gold or silver pieces, even fake ones. Designer handbags, watches, shoes, and accessories draw attention. If you need to carry gear, try to bring a low-key backpack and wear it on your front to deter potential thieves. Spread valuables, such as cash and credit cards, in different pockets, hard-to-reach places, or a money belt.

For peace of mind, Brad and I used Uber Black (better chance of trustworthy and safe drivers) to reach attractions and restaurants. Walking around at night, especially on side streets and alleys, can be dangerous depending on your location. The main tourist zones are generally safe during the day, but be aware of shady characters, vagrants, and inquisitive strangers. Stay alert at crowded sights, particularly Christ the Redeemer and Selarón Staircase, to avoid problems.

If you ever find yourself a victim of a crime, report it to the police as soon as possible. Don't try to be a hero and resist a robbery. You never know if the assailant has backup lurking around the corner or a weapon. Material possessions are replaceable and never worth your life! You'll almost certainly be fine if you use Uber for transportation, stick to the popular attractions, leave your valuables at home, and don't partake in late night escapades.

Attractions

Rio de Janeiro is all about the majestic views! The city has pockets of rich and poor neighborhoods, beaches, tropical forests, and beautiful mountains. Attractions are scattered all over the city, so make a realistic itinerary if you go the DIY route. There are plenty of tour agencies available if you prefer to hire a guide or private transportation. Rio de Janeiro has a reputation for significant rush hour traffic, so plan accordingly!

Cristo Redentor

High atop Corcovado Mountain stands the glistening white soapstone statue of Christ the Redeemer. Completed in 1931, this Art Deco landmark is a New Seven Wonder of the World and must-see attraction in Rio de Janeiro. I couldn't resist giving Jesus a high five after we soaked up the breathtaking views of the city. Puffs of clouds mixed with sunshine created an ethereal moment!

Try to visit as early as possible, but expect a huge turnout regardless. Opening hours are every day, 8:00 AM-7:00 PM, and timed entry tickets, which include a round-trip tram ride, cost $22 USD per person. Bring bug spray to avoid irritating bites and sunscreen since there isn't much shade on the main platform.

Real Gabinete Português de Leitura

The Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading is a gorgeous library full of manuscripts, paintings, and statues. The jaw-dropping building has Gothic Revival architectural elements such as stained glass windows, decorative stone, and wooden spires. Over 350,000 volumes are inside! Afterwards, walk a short distance over to Confeitaria Colombo to eat a gooey brigadeiro (ball of sweetened condensed milk, butter, and cocoa powder covered in sprinkles). This gorgeous café with marble accents has a nice selection of desserts and coffee drinks.

Jardim Botânico do Rio de Janeiro

Escape the hustle and bustle of the city with a peaceful afternoon at the Botanical Garden of Rio de Janeiro. The gravel avenue of towering palm trees is a popular photo spot with tourists. Brad and I were fortunate to find several Channel-billed Toucans foraging for fruits in the canopy. The manicured grounds feature vibrant orchids, native plants, and fountains. Opening hours are Thursday-Tuesday, 10:00 AM-5:00 PM, and tickets cost $13 USD per person.

Escadaria Selarón

In 1990, Chilean artist Jorge Selarón began to cover the 215 steps in front of his home with colorful tiles, mirrors, and ceramics. He sold paintings and accepted donations from locals in order to fund his outdoor masterpiece. Approximately 300 tiles on the Selarón Staircase depict a pregnant African woman with anecdotes. Selarón never disclosed the significance of the woman, but alluded that she represented a personal problem from his past. Come early to beat the crowds and have fun looking at the kaleidoscope of culture!

Pão de Açúcar

Sugarloaf Mountain, named after its resemblance to traditional conical molds of refined sugar, is a fantastic area to admire Rio de Janeiro's tropical landscape. You'll ride two panoramic cable cars to reach the windy summit, which is a popular spot to watch the sunset. I highly suggest walking the Morro da Urca Trail back down for a chance to see wildlife including marmosets and birds. Opening hours are Monday-Thursday, 9:00 AM-8:00 PM, and Friday-Sunday, 8:30 AM-8:30 PM. Timed entry tickets cost $34 USD per person.

For a different perspective of Sugarloaf Mountain, head to Praia Vermelha or join a sunset booze cruise along Guanabara Bay. Brad and I enjoyed sipping a few caipirinhas on a sailboat while taking in the scenery. We booked a three-hour small group tour with SAIL IN RIO via GetYourGuide for $70 USD per person.

Santa Teresa

Look for handmade souvenirs, colorful street murals, and iconic yellow bondes (trams) in the eclectic Santa Teresa neighborhood. Tickets to ride the vintage tram can only be purchased at the main station. Long lines are common and tickets often sell out on weekends, so plan accordingly. Take a break form the heat with a refreshing fruity cocktail at Explorer Bar. Even though the area can use a bit of TLC, it's worth a quick stop to see a different side of Rio de Janeiro.

Praias de Ipanema e Copacabana

Grab a towel, rent a chair/umbrella, and get a dose of Vitamin D at two of the most famous beaches in the world. Brad and I spent a day marveling at the jagged peaks beyond Ipanema Beach while splashing in the strong waves. Vendors sell everything under the sun such as sarongs, grilled cheese, beverages, açai, mini speakers, ice cream, bikinis, corn, sunglasses, and souvenirs. Unfortunately, the amount of trash on the sand diminished our experience and we were shocked at the utter disregard for the environment.

To switch things up, we cruised along Copacabana Beach with our hotel bikes one morning. A characteristic feature is the wavy black and white stone sidewalk. The golden beach was relatively clean with calm swimming conditions. The main strip has plenty of bathrooms, bars, restaurants, volleyball courts, and sand sculptures. Please do your part to help keep the beach clean and set a good example for others to follow!

Final Thoughts

Do I regret our decision to visit Rio de Janeiro? Not quite. Although I had better Brazilian experiences in Salvador, Ouro Prêto, and Iguaçu Falls, my stay in the country would've felt incomplete if we didn't make an effort to see the city. Whether my anxiety was unfounded or the warnings were blown out of proportion, I'm always keen to play it safe.

Fortunately, Brad and I never experienced anything bad ourselves despite the countless stories we heard about crime. Yes, we witnessed a fight and unpleasant behavior, but those circumstances could happen in any other major city. Rio de Janeiro is a place to proceed with caution, but it wasn't as bad as many people make it out to be. A mindful approach, realistic attitude, and street smarts will help you navigate the city.

If you happen to be backpacking throughout South America, Rio de Janeiro is worth a few days. However, I wouldn't recommend a special getaway unless Carnival is on your bucket list. In the end, Brad and I made the most of our trip by experiencing the major attractions and beaches. Standing beneath Christ the Redeemer definitely lived up to the hype!