Review of Shompoo Cruise - Mekong River, Laos

Hop aboard a traditional wooden slow boat with Shompoo Cruise to experience the beauty of the Mekong River in northern Laos. During the two-day adventure, you'll visit quaint villages, see water buffalo grazing near the shoreline, taste authentic cuisine, and marvel at thousands of Buddha statues inside of Pak Ou Caves!

Many backpackers and travelers consider the winding route on the Mekong River between Huay Xai (border town) and Luang Prabang a rite of passage in Southeast Asia. Slow boats go both upstream (towards Huay Xai) and downstream (towards Luang Prabang) most days depending on the time of year.

Public, cheap, and often cramped slow boats typically have basic facilities without tours. Brad and I wanted something more immersive and decided to search instead for a comfortable option to jumpstart our visit in Laos. Below I cover what to expect at the Thailand-Laos border and review our scenic voyage with Shompoo Cruise.

Thailand-Laos Border

Due to the Shompoo Cruise early morning departure from Huay Xai, we decided to avoid a mad dash through immigration. Brad and I wanted to account for plenty of wiggle room in case of problems. To give us peace of mind, we booked a room in Huay Xai at Oudomphone Guest House 2 for one night. We didn't want to miss the boat!

After spending a few days in Chiang Rai, Thailand, we purchased bus tickets to the Friendship Bridge in Chiang Khong province for 90 THB ($2.50 USD) per person at the Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 1. The ride took approximately 1.5 hours. To our surprise, the bus dropped us off at the Chiang Rai Provincial Land Office where several tuk tuks were awaiting passengers. We paid 50 THB ($1.40 USD) per person to finally reach Thailand immigration.

Once we received our exit stamps, Brad and I waited for another bus to take us to Laos immigration. Tickets were 35 THB ($1 USD) per person. Upon arrival, we filled out a small form with our travel plans. Even though we already completed and paid for our Laos eVisas online ($50 USD per person), the immigration officers demanded a bribe of 100 THB ($2.75 USD) for us to enter the country. My advice is to have some extra cash at the ready to avoid any conflict.

There is an ATM at the Laos Immigration Office if you need to obtain Laotian Kip (LAK). Our tuk tuk ride to Huay Xai cost 200,000 LAK ($9 USD). Fortunately, we had enough cash with us until we arrived in Luang Prabang because the ATM in Pakbeng wasn't working. Phew!

Shompoo Cruise

There are a variety of slow boat operators offering inexpensive, mid-range, and private charters. Ask plenty of questions, read reviews, and shop around for the best value. Evaluate your budget and itinerary to pick which one is right for you. Whatever type you decide, a ride on the Mekong River is a must-do activity in Laos!

Shompoo Cruise has built a stellar reputation with its decade of experience transporting tourists in northern Laos. The company ticked all the boxes in terms of comfort, meals, responsiveness during the booking process, safety, and multiple excursions. Our guide Mr. Sommay was friendly, professional, energetic, and knowledgeable. He taught us some useful words/phrases, shared his culture, and always made sure everyone was having a good time.

Booking

Since we were traveling over Christmas, Brad and I agreed a bit of rustic luxury aboard a Shompoo Cruise slow boat was the perfect present! After securing our deposit online via credit card, we paid the rest in cash on the slow boat. The total cost was $230 USD per person. Shompoo Cruise accepts international currencies.

Shompoo Cruise also assists with hotel reservations in Pakbeng (halfway point). Brad and I decided to book directly with Sanctuary Pakbeng Lodge. Our gorgeous room ($76 USD per night) featured a private balcony with sunset views of the Mekong River, heavenly bed, and bamboo accents. The surrounding mountains and lush grounds bursting with colorful flowers were absolutely serene! For an authentic Laos dinner, I recommend the crispy vegetable spring rolls and savory coconut curry at Sabaidee Restaurant.

Slow Boat

The spacious vessel had plenty of areas to relax with a hot cup of tea and watch daily life on the mocha Mekong River. Brad and I enjoyed a booth all to ourselves with plush cushions and cozy blankets. We shared a bottle of wine, played rounds of rummy, and conversed with fellow passengers.

The clean bathroom with flushable toilet, kitchen, and engine room were located at the back of the boat. We spent the afternoons after lunch stretched out on the bench loungers at the front near the captain's quarters. Even though the weather was chilly, the sunshine and pleasant atmosphere kept our smiles bright!

Food

Shompoo Cruise served two delicious buffet lunches with fresh fruit, white rice, steamed vegetables, meat curries, and egg salads. My favorite dishes were the mok pa (steamed fish with aromatics wrapped in banana leaf) and laab (chopped fish salad with lemongrass, herbs, and shallots). Desserts included chilled tapioca and bananas in coconut milk. Our plates were practically licked clean!

The cook was always eager to accommodate any dietary restrictions, allergies, and food preferences. Beer, soda, and wine were available for an additional charge. Coffee, tea, and filtered water were complimentary. Bring plenty of snacks!

Itinerary

Brad and I spent most of the days admiring the Mekong River. We observed fishermen, women washing clothes, farmers, and children splashing in the water. Besides daydreaming, reading, and hanging out on the slow boat, we enjoyed three excursions led by Mr. Sommay. Below was our itinerary with Shompoo Cruise.

Ban Kang Lae

Our first tour was of Ban Kang Lae, a rural village on the riverbank with approximately 60 families. The elected chief, distinguished by her red knees, answered our translated questions and gave permission to photograph the residents. As we meandered in between thatched households on stilts surrounded by strewn laundry and small livestock, Mr. Sommay explained traditional roles in the community and its simple lifestyle.

Ban Mouang

Mr. Sommay couldn't contain his excitement as he poured all of us shots of lao lao, a rice whiskey produced at our second stop. Our scrunched faces, yelps, and laughter gave away our immediate opinion of the strong beverage! Instead of participating in another round, I browsed the seashell handicrafts, woven scarves, and jewelry. Ban Mouang village was full of quiet locals, vendor stalls, and basket trays full of chili peppers drying in the sun.

Pak Ou Caves

Our final activity was climbing the narrow stairs leading to Pak Ou Caves, which overlooks the Mekong River. Thousands of Buddha statues in various sizes and positions fill almost every crevice of the two limestone caves. Cobwebs and dust envelope the metal, wooden, ceramic, and gilded figures of the enlightened monk. In addition to prayer, pilgrims use the caves as a place to safeguard broken statues.

Final Thoughts

After observing several grim faces of packed passengers sitting in bargain slow boats, I was relieved we made the decision to upgrade our ride. Shompoo Cruise delivered a relaxing journey full of beautiful culture, appetizing cuisine, spectacular scenery, and unplugged charm. Mr. Sommay was a wonderful guide who helped us connect with Laos in a personal way.

Traveling for two days along the largest river in Southeast Asia was an unforgettable adventure. The company organized a seamless itinerary with just enough excursions to break up the steady pace of floating down the Mekong River. I highly recommend booking a trip with Shompoo Cruise, especially if you desire some creature comforts. Bon voyage!