Patagonia: Los Glaciares and Torres del Paine National Parks

Journey to one of the most iconic landscapes in South America to experience epic adventures full of breathtaking beauty and wildlife. Expansive glaciers cracking under the bright sun, roaming guanacos on the lookout for predatory pumas, jagged granite peaks obscured by wispy clouds, and lagoons with teal hues await in the vast territory of Patagonia!

Planning your ideal trip will depend on a combination of factors including interests, budget, allotted days, and transportation methods. Patagonia spans two countries, Argentina and Chile, and offers a variety of routes with spectacular attractions. Additionally, Ushuaia and Punta Arenas are popular departure points for Antarctica cruises while Puerto Madryn is a prime spot to observe orcas, penguins, whales, and seals.

Brad and I explored Los Glaciares National Park (Argentina) and Torres del Paine National Park (Chile) in Patagonia during December 2024. Our two-week trip included stays in El Calafate, Rio Serrano Valley, and El Chaltén. Below I've prepared a guide with logistics, national park information, attractions, day hikes, and helpful tips so you can organize a successful quest into the wilderness!

Logistics

Patagonia takes a lot of time and energy to coordinate, especially if you go the DIY route. Start the process as soon as possible to book rental cars, accommodations, and flights. Bus schedules and border crossings are pretty straightforward. Don't underestimate the importance of rest days, especially if you want to tackle some tough hikes. Quality over quantity is key!

Airports

Most travelers fly into either Comandante Armando Tola International Airport (FTE) in El Calafate, Argentina, or Teniente Julio Gallardo Airport (PNT) in Puerto Natales, Chile. Brad and I flew in/out of El Calafate with Aerolineas Argentinas from Buenos Aires. The most popular airlines in Chile with flights to Puerto Natales are LATAM and Sky.

Budget airlines, such as JetSMART and Flybondi, also offer direct flights. However, we had a cancellation with JetSMART due to an unexpected strike and noticed frequent delays with Flybondi. I recommend booking flights with Aerolineas Argentinas to avoid problems; the extra cost is worth the peace of mind!

Buses

Affordable coach buses operate between El Calafate, Puerto Natales, and El Chaltén. Tickets can be purchased at the bus terminals or online. I highly recommend booking with Marga Taqsa via Busbud. The company was reliable and employees assisted passengers with immigration forms/procedures.

Unfortunately, I can't recommend Bus Sur due to our awful experience. Argentine authorities stopped our Puerto Natales-El Calafate bus in Esperanza since the company was operating outside of its approved days. A lot of passengers missed their flights and bus connections. Brad and I had no choice but to hire an expensive taxi to take us the rest of the way to El Chaltén. Despite our written complaints, we were never compensated.

Taxis & Rental Cars

Besides private transfers, taxis are the main way to get around in the towns since Uber isn't available. Reach out to Gaston via WhatsApp +54 9 3516 84 1765 if you need a lift in El Calafate. He arranged a few taxis during our trip, including the one that rescued us from the Bus Sur debacle! Be sure to have plenty of local currency. We also used Ves, a shuttle service, to take us to our apartment in El Calafate from the airport. The ride cost $11 USD per person.

A rental car is a fantastic, yet pricey, option if you want to roam Patagonia on your own terms. Brad and I reserved an automatic SUV with Rent-A-Car VHM in Puerto Natales for $430 USD. I highly recommend the family-owned company for its dependable vehicles, convenient pick up/drop off service, and communication. One tank of gasoline was sufficient for the entire four days we spent in Torres del Paine National Park.

Accommodations

There are countless accommodations in Patagonia to suit every preference. Travelers on a budget may like hostels, campgrounds, or refugios (simple shelters with meals included along the W Trek and O Circuit hiking trails in Torres del Paine National Park). Looking for a romantic getaway or creature comforts? Consider booking a stay at a luxury lodge, cozy yurt, or estancia (traditional ranch with custom off-the-beaten-path adventures).

Brad and I sought middle-of-the-road options with kitchens to cook meals and prepare packed lunches. Privacy, location, and size were important factors for us. We booked two apartments via Airbnb in El Calafate and El Chaltén. Our cabin at Departamentos Octava Maravilla in Rio Serrano Valley was comfortable, quiet, and spacious. The best part was gazing at the Cuernos del Paine peaks from our deck during a cotton candy sunset!

El Calafate, Argentina

Named after the delectable purple berry, El Calafate is a charming town on the southern shore of Argentino Lake. The star attraction is nearby Perito Moreno Glacier within Los Glaciares National Park. If you have an extra day, consider birdwatching at Laguna Nimez Nature Reserve or learning about glaciers at the Glaciarium Patagonian Ice Museum.

The walkable area is full of restaurants, boutiques, small grocery stores, artisan markets, and tour operators. Keep an eye out for nesting Black-faced Ibises in the pine trees. Try a slice of moist toffee cake at Don Luis or scoop of calafate ice cream at Heladería Acuarela if you're craving something sweet. According to legend, anyone who eats a calafate berry is destined to return to Patagonia. The fruit tastes like a cross between a blueberry and cranberry.

Perito Moreno Glacier

Standing before Perito Moreno Glacier, which spans 250 sq km (97 sq mi), will make your jaw drop! This active giant protrudes from the Andes Mountain Range and contains the Earth's third-largest reserve of fresh water. Serrated shards, narrow crevasses, and black rocky veins create a marvelous blanket of haphazard ice.

Perito Moreno Glacier is open every day, September 1st-April 30th (8:00 AM-6:00 PM) and May 1st-August 30th (9:00 AM-4:00 PM). Tickets can be purchased online or at the main entrance with cash or credit card. Discounts are available if you opt for a three-day or seven-day Flexipass, which is a good idea if you also plan to visit Los Glaciares National Park in El Chaltén. Bring a photo ID or passport for verification.

Round-trip transportation to Perito Moreno Glacier from El Calafate isn't cheap! The lowest price we found was a shuttle with CALTUR for $50 USD per person. Passengers met at the bus terminal for departure at 12:30 PM. Brad and I had approximately four hours to explore the park before heading back to El Calafate at 6:00 PM. Afternoon visits are ideal if you want to hear the ice crack and watch chunks splash into the aquamarine water.

Prioritize the Sendero Central (yellow trail) to see panoramic views. Escape the crowds by wandering along the Sendero Costa (blue trail), Sendero Bosque (green trail), or Sendero Inferior (red trail). The elevated steel walkways are surrounded by mossy trees, delightful flowers, and spiny shrubs. Signs and information placards make it impossible to get lost!

Crank up the wow factor with a boat ride, kayaking tour, or trekking excursion. Activities are easy to book in town, but come with a hefty price tag. Ask plenty of questions and read reviews to know what to expect. Traversing a glacier with crampons is definitely a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!

Laguna Nimez Nature Reserve

Get up close to the flora and fauna of Patagonia with a relaxing visit to Laguna Nimez Nature Reserve. The protected 3 km (1.9 mi) interpretive trail features blinds, balconies, and Argentino Lake beach access. Multilingual pamphlets are provided to help identify critters and plants. Tickets cost $12 USD (local currency only) and binoculars are available to rent. The reserve is open every day, 9:30 AM-7:30 PM (summer) and 10:00 AM-6:00 PM (winter).

Brad and I had a blast birdwatching for three hours in the morning. We ate homemade sandwiches for lunch inside of a blind while observing waterfowl, such as Argentine Blue-bills and Red-gartered Coots, paddle along the shoreline. Our top finds were Spectacled Tyrants, Black-necked Swans, and Chilean Flamingos!

Rio Serrano Valley, Chile

Puerto Natales is the gateway to begin your crusade in Torres del Paine National Park, especially if you intend to complete the W Trek or O Circuit. The city has a well-developed infrastructure with plenty of large grocery stores, hotels, outfitters, car rental agencies, and restaurants. Public buses run back and forth to major points in the park a few times a day.

After picking up our wheels, we bought all of our food and supplies before driving to Rio Serrano Valley. Brad and I decided to stay as close to Torres del Paine National Park as possible to get an early start each day. We saved money by avoiding restaurants and meal planning. There are fancier options farther north with all-inclusive packages if you don't mind a bit of sticker shock!

Torres del Paine National Park

This mammoth park is sure to impress with its razor-sharp peaks, abundant wildlife, and picturesque views! If you want to hike, check out AllTrails to get a rundown of the challenging terrain. Sections of the W-Trek are possible via day trips. Horseback riding, glacial boat rides, fly fishing, mountain biking, puma tracking, and kayaking are also worthwhile activities.

Brad and I spent three jam-packed days in the park to soak up the magnificence. We hiked to the bases of Mirador Las Torres and Mirador Cuernos before wrapping things up with a Lago Grey III cruise around Grey Glacier. Proceed with caution while driving on the gravel roads, which are full of meteoric potholes. Keep an eye out for wild horses, guanacos, foxes, pumas, and condors.

Torres del Paine National Park is open every day. Tickets and three-day passes can be purchased online or at the main entrances with a credit card. Print or download your ticket since signal in the park is unreliable. Check out this pamphlet with rules, trail information, and safety tips.

Mirador Las Torres

My most anticipated hike in Patagonia was Mirador Las Torres! Around 8:00 AM, we set off from the Welcome Center during a light drizzle to reach the summit before the crowds. Upon arrival, the three granite prongs were hidden behind a wall of dreary clouds. After patiently waiting for an hour, Mother Nature awarded our efforts with a sunny vista!

Brad and I took seven hours to complete the 21.7 km (13.5 mi) out-and-back trail. Walking through the dense forest full of boulders and gurgling streams was magical. We celebrated our first major hike in Patagonia with a pack of Oreos and cup of hot chocolate at the Chileno refugio. The intense elevation gain wrecked havoc on our legs!

Mirador Cuernos

After a well-deserved lazy morning and hearty breakfast, we followed the easy 6.4 km (4 mi) out-and-back path to Mirador Cuernos. Chirping sparrows kept us company as we admired colorful orchids, calafate berry shrubs, eerie trees, and snow-capped mountains. The trail has stunning views of Salto Grande and Lake Nordenskjöld. Toast your day with a glass of crisp Chilean wine at the café once you finish!

Grey Glacier

Gusty winds and sore legs persuaded us to skip our final hike to Grey Glacier. Instead, we embarked on a hassle-free cruise with Hotel Lago Grey to see the three sections of blue ice up close. There are three departures per day and tickets cost $110 USD per person. Passengers must walk approximately 30 minutes along a short trail and rocky beach to reach the boat.

Brad and I sipped refreshing calafate pisco sours while enjoying the excellent views. The crew passed around a mini iceberg for us to hold as we took photos on the upper deck. The three-hour voyage was a fun way to mix up our itinerary. Sometimes spontaneity is the best aspect of travel!

El Chaltén, Argentina

The laidback village of El Chaltén, on the border of Los Glaciares National Park, is a hiker haven with countless trailheads to discover. A vehicle isn't necessary since everything is walkable, including basic grocery stores, accommodations, restaurants, and the central bus terminal.

El Chaltén caters to a backpacker mindset with plenty of breweries and rustic outdoor areas to meet new friends. Don't leave without devouring a few scoops of decadent ice cream at Heladería Domo Blanco. The super dulce de leche and berry mascarpone flavors received a standing ovation from our tastebuds!

Los Glaciares National Park

The crown jewel of this scenic park is Mount Fitz Roy, which lures avid hikers from around the world! Hiking and camping are the paramount activities, so plan ahead with AllTrails to get a lay of the land. Brad and I completed hikes to Chorillo del Salto, Laguna de Los Tres, Laguna Capri, Loma del Pliegue Tumbado, and Mirador de Los Cóndores. We broke up our three full days of hiking with two alternating rest days.

Los Glaciares National Park is open every day. Tickets can be purchased online or at the ranger stations next to the major trailheads via credit card. Discounts are available if you purchase a three-day or seven-day Flexipass. Bring a photo ID or passport for verification.

Chorillo del Salto

Warm up your legs with the easy 6.6 km (4.1 mi) out-and-back trail to Chorillo del Salto. The pristine waterfall is nestled between rocky cliffs covered in moss. Take an invigorating dip in the shallow pool if you've worked up a sweat in the afternoon heat. Come in the morning if you want to avoid rambunctious kids, pesky mosquitos, tour groups, or teenagers playing loud music.

Laguna de Los Tres - Mount Fitz Roy

Load up with a pile of carbs and tighten your boots because Mount Fitz Roy doesn't mess around! To see the finest view in Patagonia requires a difficult 22.5 km (14 mi) out-and-back hike with brutal elevation gain. Time seems to stop once you reach the majestic summit. Playful clouds dance above the soaring granite peaks while rays of sunlight illuminate the teal lagoon below. The dramatic effect is mesmerizing!

The trail weaves through sections of lush forest, marsh, and steep boulders. Brad and I were thrilled to spot three Magellanic Woodpeckers searching for grubs in the early morning. You'll likely see condors by Piedras Blancas Glacier, which protrudes from Mount Fitz Roy. Consider adding a slight detour to Laguna Capri on your way back, but beware of annoying horse flies in the afternoon!

Loma del Pliegue Tumbado

Somewhere over the rainbow lies a hike that will blow you away, literally! Despite feeling a tad sick, I rallied to complete the strenuous 20.1 km (12.5 mi) out-and-back trail to Loma del Pliegue Tumbado with Brad. The final stretch consists of three rocky hills with 360-degree views of Mount Fitz Roy, Torre Glacier, and Viedma Lake.

The elements definitely took us by surprise on our last day in Patagonia! Strong winds, pelting rain, and grey skies prevented a picture-perfect view at the summit. Nevertheless, the stormy weather couldn't take away our cheerful smiles. If you have some extra gas in the tank and want to see a condor, hike up to Mirador de Los Cóndores which begins at the same trailhead.

Helpful Tips

High season is between December-February. Expect warm temperatures, blooming flowers, crowds, open hiking trails, windy conditions, and expensive accommodations. Consider traveling during November if you don't mind a bit of snow and want to avoid the summer rush. April is generally the prime time to see colorful fall foliage.

Pack plenty of reliable gear to keep you comfortable in the unpredictable climate. A rain jacket, sweatshirt, hat, moisture-wicking layers, and sturdy hiking boots are crucial items. Wear sunscreen and sunglasses to protect yourself from the intense ultraviolet rays. Hand sanitizer, bug spray, facial tissues, and adhesive bandages are useful supplies to have in your daypack. Please take out what you take in and leave no trace, including biodegradable food which can harm wildlife.

Sustaining your energy levels all day long with nutritious food is vital in Patagonia. Restaurants are generally overpriced with lackluster reviews. Even though grocery shopping and meal planning required extra work, it saved us a ton of money. Puerto Natales had better ingredients and fresh produce compared to El Calafate and El Chaltén.

A typical breakfast for us was either coffee with scrambled egg skillets or yogurt parfaits. I made black bean burritos, chickpea patty sandwiches, and tuna subs loaded with vegetables for our outdoor lunches. Dinner was often different variations of pasta. We packed trail mix, bananas, cheese, granola bars, Oreos, apples, and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches to eat during the hikes.

Final Thoughts

Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, "It's not about the destination, it's the journey." These spiritual words come to mind when I think back on my overall experience in Patagonia. The exhaustive journey required countless hours of researching, driving, cooking, and walking. Some days we needed to plead with our aching bodies to complete demanding hikes, welcome repetitive meals, and finish chores. This legendary landscape is a place of extremes and requires consistent willpower to make each day count.

Perhaps, instead, the journey and destination share equal importance in this alluring region. Ultimately, each bucket list destination, such as the picturesque summits and gargantuan glaciers, was worth the considerable effort. At the end of our two weeks, we felt immeasurable gratitude to behold one of Mother Nature's incredible masterpieces. No matter the perspective or how you structure your trip, Patagonia is an awe-inspiring destination unlike any other!