Ouro Prêto, Brazil: A Colonial Town with a Golden Past

Step back in time and uncover the bounty of Brazil's gold rush days with a peaceful getaway to Ouro Prêto. Located in the state of Minas Gerais, this historic mining town boasts Baroque churches, picturesque cobblestone streets, and decadent cuisine. The surrounding green hills, chirping birds, and fresh air provide the perfect backdrop to explore this one-of-a-kind treasure in South America.

Brad and I spent a weekend in Ouro Prêto to admire the beautiful scenery at a relaxed pace. Instead of visiting every attraction and following a busy itinerary, we chose to simply wander and appreciate the Portuguese colonial architecture. Having no plan was the ideal way to kickoff this quaint destination!

Where to Stay

There are countless pousadas (hotels) in Ouro Prêto featuring gorgeous views and amenities. We booked an affordable standard queen room for three nights at Pouso Jardim de Assis. The comfy bed, outdoor garden patio, friendly staff, and prime location truly enhanced our trip. One morning, a troop of fluffy marmosets came for their daily bananas as we ate our tasty buffet breakfast!

History

Ouro Prêto, established by the Portuguese in the late 17th Century, became a lucrative mining hotspot after gold was discovered in the mountains by bandeirantes (territory scouts). Several settlements, collectively known as Vila Rica, were created to support the influx of foreign prospectors and African slave workers. Numerous underground mines were constructed to increase production. Other precious minerals, such as imperial topaz and dolomite, were also found in the region.

News of the immense riches spread throughout Europe and attracted architects, scholars, and bureaucrats. Eventually, the bustling town was renamed to Ouro Prêto, which translates to black gold. The high content of iron oxide darkened the exterior of the gold deposits resulting in a characteristic hue. During the 18th Century, Portugal received approximately 800 metric tons of gold via the royal tax!

Centro Histórico

Remnants of this significant chapter in Brazil's history are still visible today, especially in the valley. Narrow cobblestone streets zigzag around pockets of trees and plazas with notable buildings, such as Praça Tiradentes. The Museu da Inconfidência (closed during our visit) evokes the Baroque style with its finials, balustrades, and symmetry. The imposing clock tower and fountain with twin suns (symbols of enlightenment and rebirth) are the most striking details.

Many of the trademark whitewashed façades have accents of primary colors around window and door frames. Terracotta roof tiles seamlessly complement the natural landscape. Wrought-iron lamps, shallow balconies, and hand-painted business signs add to the overall charm. See a breathtaking bird's-eye view at the Mirante do Morro São Sebastião overlook.

Vehicles are the only obvious hint of modernity in Ouro Prêto and parking spots are limited. Walking is the best way to get around, so bring a pair of reliable shoes with traction for the steep inclines and slippery pavers. Every step leads to colonial architecture, boutiques, elegant churches, cafés, and gold mining tours. The whole town is a delightful open-air museum!

Catholic Churches

The main attractions in Ouro Prêto are undoubtedly the magnificent churches! Thirteen dot the lovely area, each with unique embellishments, murals, and façades. The use of soapstone, a plentiful local material, is prominently featured in the architecture. Instead of constructing formal convents or monasteries, funds were allocated for extravagant chapels with European and Brazilian design aesthetics. Most churches reflect a hybrid of Neoclassical, Baroque, and Rococo elements.

There is an overwhelming amount of churches in town, so it's wise to do a bit of research before your arrival. Some require a small entrance fee via cash or credit card. Most churches have specific opening hours and are closed on Monday, so plan accordingly!

Igreja de São Francisco de Assis

Finished by the end of the 19th Century, the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi is a stunning achievement of Brazilian architect and sculptor Antônio Francisco Lisboa (Aleijadinho). The circular bell towers, ornate soapstone frontispiece, and oculus relief depicting Saint Francis receiving the stigmata are notable exterior details. The interior has gilded carvings, a stone pulpit with winged cherub heads, and whimsical motifs. Manuel da Costa Ataíde painted Mary surrounded by angels playing various musical instruments on the ceiling of the chapel.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo

A wide staircase leads up to the grand façade of the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, built during the 18th Century. It has a slight curvature, massive blue doorway, and square bell towers with pinnacles. The project was initiated by the Brotherhood of the Carmelite Order, which moved to Ouro Prêto from Rio de Janeiro. The soapstone frontispiece features its coat of arms flanked by cherubs. One of its members, Manuel Francisco Lisboa (Aleijadinho's father), was granted the commission.

Basílica Menor Nossa Senhora do Pilar

Brazil's most opulent place of worship is the Minor Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar, started in the late 17th Century. The interior is gilded with over 451 kg (995 lbs) of gold and silver! The heavenly space has 347 carved angels, 15 ceiling murals of Old Testament scenes, and an exquisite chancel with helical columns wrapped in flowers. The lower crypt functions as a museum with religious artifacts and vestments on display.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário

Constructed during the 18th Century, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary was planned by the Brotherhood of Our Lady of the Rosary of Black Men. The curved façade has three archways which lead to the interior elliptical floor plan covered in fantastic tiles. The elaborate altars are made of wooden planks with illusionistic paintings of cherubs, flowers, and columns. Various statues of saints, including Saint Iphigenia (patron saint of slaves), fill the colorful niches.

Stone Market

Before you depart Ouro Prêto, be sure to browse the artisan stalls of the Stone Market located across the street from the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi. Handcrafted soapstone pieces, such as etched vases, religious statues, and hangable knickknacks, are wonderful souvenirs to take home. Prices are reasonable and vendors accept cash/credit cards. Opening hours are every day, morning to dusk.

Restaurants

Minas Gerais is known for its hearty and traditional cuisine. Eating in Ouro Prêto is a flavorful affair! Signature dishes include feijão tropeiro (sharable plate of beans, pork, toasted cassava flour, rice, sausage, fried eggs, and collard greens), pão de queijo (small baked cheese balls), and galinhada (chicken stew cooked with rice, onions, peppers, and tomatoes). Below are my top picks for a mouthwatering meal!

• Lunch - Risotto is a popular side dish in town with countless satisfying variations. Our favorite was the rich lemon risotto and grilled tilapia with garlic herb sauce at Parada do Conde. The turmeric risotto with mango salmon and steamed vegetables at Olga Nur was an imaginative combination for our tastebuds. If you're in the mood for a cocktail, the bartender certainly knows how to make a strong caipirinha. Cheers!

• Café - Perk up your afternoon with a creamy doce de leite latte served with chocolate espresso beans at Comercial Ouro Prêto de Chocolates. Snag a table along the street to do some people-watching. Satisfy your sweet tooth with a piece of cold coconut cake at Café das Flores. The rooftop patio has amazing views, especially during golden hour.

• Dinner - The perfect romantic date night spot is at Bené da Flauta with its warm ambience, friendly service, and diverse menu. We started off with a generous portion of pumpkin soup and glass of Malbec before devouring our spectacular entrées. Brad's garlic filet mignon with sage spaghetti and my puff pastry chicken breast with spinach, gorgonzola, and mushroom sauce were worth the splurge!

Logistics

Most travelers fly into Belo Horizonte/Confins - Tancredo Neves International Airport (CNF) to begin their journey to Ouro Prêto. Uber, buses, and taxis are available from the airport to Belo Horizonte. Keep in mind a second bus connection is required to make it the rest of the way to Ouro Prêto. You could also rent a car and take a road trip!

Brad and I decided to book a private transfer with Turismo Ouro Prêto from the airport to our hotel. The one-way ride took approximately two hours and cost $100 USD. We made the reservation online and were contacted a few days before via WhatsApp to confirm pickup details. I highly recommend the company if you want to save time and avoid extra transportation steps.

Uber isn't available in Ouro Prêto, but taxis are plentiful if you want to explore the surrounding waterfalls or Mariana (nearby city with colonial architecture and churches). Always confirm a fare before departure to avoid surprises. Brad and I hired a taxi to drive us to the Ouro Prêto Bus Station for our nine-hour bus ride to Rio de Janeiro. We purchased our UTIL bus tickets online for $31 USD per person.

Final Thoughts

Ouro Prêto is a dreamy place plucked straight out of a storybook. Every twist and turn promises a little glimpse into Brazil's golden past. The weathered stones, serene churches, and restored buildings help transport you to a historical time. Brad and I felt recharged in the easygoing pace of the town, which is unlike anywhere else we've experienced in the country.

Even though Ouro Prêto requires a bit of effort to reach, it guarantees fewer crowds compared to other colonial towns, such as Salvador in the state of Bahía. No matter how many days you spend in this rare nugget, it will add a bit of sparkle to your travels!