Mbaracayú Lodge: The Atlantic Forest of Paraguay

There's nothing quite as serene as walking along a dense forest trail with peculiar insects, thick humid air, and chirping birds. The mind eases into a peaceful meditative state while the heart aches at the bountiful splendor. Every step promises a deeper connection to nature and its vital importance.

The Mbaracayú Reserve, located in the eastern part of Paraguay, entices visitors with exotic creatures and mesmerizing waterfalls. Traveling to this protected portion of the Atlantic Forest takes a bit of effort, especially if you forgo a guided excursion. Below I cover logistics, helpful tips, and a review of our stay at Mbaracayú Lodge to help you plan a trip to this remote destination!

Paraguay

The landlocked country of Paraguay isn't often a high priority for tourists in South America due to its lack of attractions. Ciudad del Este is known for countless shopping malls whereas the capital of Asunción has gritty architecture, history, and culture. The arid and desolate Chaco region blankets the north, while a few noteworthy Jesuit ruins remain in the south.

The promise of wildlife in the Mbaracayú Reserve instantly grabbed our attention. After reaching out to non-responsive outfitters, Brad and I realized we needed to take matters into our own hands. Since we already wanted to visit Iguazú Falls in Brazil and Argentina, we decided to combine Paraguay into the same trip.

Logistics

Paraguay (Ciudad del Este), Brazil (Foz do Iguaçu), and Argentina (Puerto Iguazú) converge in a region called the Tres Fronteras. Traversing between these three borders is relatively simple via public buses and taxis. Brad and I flew into Puerto Iguazú from Buenos Aires via Aerolíneas Argentinas to begin our adventure. The next morning, we purchased bus tickets ($5 USD per person) via Rio Uruguay at the Puerto Iguazú station to take us to Ciudad del Este.

Immigration

Following a straightforward exit out of Argentina, we realized we bypassed Brazil and Paraguay immigration controls. Yikes! Apparently, Paraguay doesn't require foreigners to check in if they only visit Ciudad del Este for the day. However, we needed a passport stamp since we were heading farther into the country with a rental car.

After a two-hour wait in the sweltering heat, officers wouldn't process us once they noticed our missing Brazil stamps. Fortunately, crossing the bridge back to Brazil was easy, but the grave mistake wasted a lot of time. I recommend asking the bus driver to drop you off at Brazil immigration to get entry/exit stamps and then walk across the bridge to complete Paraguay immigration.

Rental Car

Taxis in Ciudad del Este will often take advantage of foreigners by charging ridiculous fares. Brad and I paid $10 USD for a seven-minute ride to our rental car agency. Download Bolt (similar to Uber/Lyft) if you want affordable private transportation.

We reserved an automatic Kia sedan for three full days at Oriente Rent a Car. The total cost (payable by credit card) was $160 USD plus a $150 USD deposit. I highly recommend the company for its responsive communication, flexibility, and friendly service! Always take photos/videos of your vehicle before pick up and after drop off to avoid issues.

Driving in Paraguay

Similar to the United States, Paraguay drives on the right side. Speed limits are displayed in kilometers per hour and rarely observed. As a foreigner, it's best to follow the rules even if most locals don't. Avoid lingering in the fast lane unless you're trying to pass. Roads are well-maintained and gas stations are plentiful along busy highways. Watch out for speed bumps and potholes!

Be sure to carry your driver's license and passport with you at all times. Download Google Maps offline beforehand since cellular service is unreliable in rural areas. Keep plenty of water, snacks, and cash with you in case of an emergency. If you want to be extra safe, share your route with a family member or friend and set up a timeframe to touch base. Take the following paved route without tolls and break for a hearty Paraguayan meal at Italian Restaurant Pizza e Café.

Perhaps the most important part of any road trip is to enjoy the scenery! We saw rolling green soybean fields, cattle farms, rustic towns, and perched birds on fence posts along the roads. Brad and I came across several police checkpoints on the way to Mbaracayú Lodge, but we were ignored. If you do get stopped, stay calm, be respectful, and answer questions with a smile.

Mbaracayú Lodge

The complex of Mbaracayú Lodge is tucked on the west side of the Mbaracayú Reserve, which covers 64,405 hectares (159,148 acres) of Atlantic Forest. Guests share the property with park rangers, researchers, and young students who are learning professional hospitality and tourism skills. Reservations can be made via WhatsApp +595 971 282850.

Accommodations & Meals

There are three guest buildings with a total of twelve rooms. Brad and I stayed in a standard room with a queen bed, twin bed, and private bathroom with walk-in shower. The simple space was impeccably clean and comfortable. Amenities included Wi-Fi, hot water, air conditioning, towels, filtered drinking water, tea, soap, and a shared mini fridge.

Mbaracayú Lodge is an eco-friendly hotel. Try to use hot water sparingly and turn off the lights/air conditioning when you leave the room. We also opted to forgo housekeeping and reused our towels. Recycling bins are located near the reception office.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are included with the nightly rate. Let the staff know if you have any dietary restrictions, preferences, or allergies. Breakfast featured fresh fruit, yogurt, granola, baked breads, jams, coffee, milk, tea, and juice.

Brad and I enjoyed hearty and flavorful Paraguayan feasts during lunch and dinner. The generous portions of beef stew, roasted chicken, vegetable salads, yuca, mashed potatoes, pasta, and rice fueled our adventures! Snacks, wine, and soda are available for purchase at any time.

Activities & Trails

Mbaracayú Lodge has a variety of tourist activities, group excursions, and transportation services. Staff can arrange canoe rides, campsites, guided treks, and visits to Karapá Waterfall. Let them know your interests, such as birdwatching, so they can help you make the most of your trip.

Rise and shine! The best part of Mbaracayú Lodge is waking up early to hike the narrow trails and dirt roads surrounding the property. Brad and I were eager to discover spectacular birds, bugs, and plants! Our mission was to see a male Bare-throated Bellbird up in the canopy. Although we heard its trademark shriek numerous times on the Aquara'i Trail, we never had any luck finding one.

A gorgeous female Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Magpie Tanager, and Squirrel Cuckoo made up for it! Odd beetles, colorful butterflies, and boisterous cicadas kept us company during our two full days in the Atlantic Forest. A highlight of the trip was admiring our favorite insect; a praying mantis with unbelievable leaf-like camouflage!

Check out nearby buildings, paths, and access roads for critters. Brad and I spotted several Yellow-chevroned Parakeets, Great Kiskadees, and Plush-crested Jays. The Orchid Trail along the main driveway and Paved Trail north of the complex just before the fire lane were easy to complete. Please take out what you take in and leave no trace, including biodegradable food which can harm wildlife.

Helpful Tips

Prioritize athletic clothing and lightweight gear to stay comfortable in the humid climate. Consider a rain cover for your backpack or waterproof bag to protect your belongings, particularly electronics. Brad and I packed the following items:

If you plan to go birdwatching, I recommend bringing a pair of binoculars. Most of the birds we saw were too far away for us to capture with our Canon EOS R5 camera and 24-105 mm lens. Although having a telephoto lens is ideal, it isn't an absolute requirement at the Mbaracayú Reserve. A powerful lens would definitely make shooting easier!

Final Thoughts

Brad and I felt the fragility of the environment as we made our way to Mbaracayú Lodge. Unfortunately, aggressive industrial agriculture has caused widespread deforestation at an alarming rate throughout the country. The Mbaracayú Reserve is one of the last pristine sectors of Atlantic Forest left in Paraguay.

My sincere wish is to spread the word about this special patch of magnificent wilderness and inspire ecotourism. Every visit to Mbaracayú Lodge directly supports the mission of the Moisés Bertoni Foundation; a non-profit organization which aims to bridge the gap between nature conservation and socio-environmental issues. Hopefully, drastic changes can be made before these precious ecosystems full of biodiversity are lost forever.