Luang Prabang, Laos: The Royal Jewel of Indochina

Nestled between rolling mountains along of the bank of the mocha Mekong River lies the peaceful city of Luang Prabang. Whitewashed buildings with terracotta roof tiles, sidewalks lined with vibrant pink bougainvilleas, and meandering slow boats create a charming ambience guaranteed to make any traveler feel smitten!

The former royal capital of the Kingdom of Laos was colonized by the French during 1893-1953. After a brief independence, international and civil conflicts led to the Pathet Lao communist takeover of the country in 1975. Despite the current political ideology, the city retains its past with traditional colonial architecture, French baguettes, cultural performances, and ancient Buddhist shrines.

Brad and I stayed four nights in a comfortable private room at Barn Laos Luangprabang Hostel. Its location was the perfect base to explore walkable attractions and al fresco food stalls at the Night Market. Flag down a colorful tuk tuk if you need a ride; just remember to negotiate fares before departure.

Below I've included a variety of noteworthy things to do and tasty restaurants to add to your Luang Prabang itinerary. There are tour agencies in the city if you want to arrange day trips to Pak Ou Caves and Kuang Si Waterfall. Have fun discovering the artisan boutiques, ornate temples, and unique heritage of this quaint destination!

Mount Phou Si

A 360-degree perspective of Luang Prabang awaits at the top of Mount Phou Si! Ascend the 328 steps to reach pairs of stoic dvarapalas (gate guardians), elaborate Buddhist shrines with marigold offerings, the gilded stupa (bell-shaped tower) of Wat Chom Si, and the temple of Wat Tham Phou Si with dragon finials. The sacred hill is a popular spot to watch the sunset and overlooks the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers. A fee of 20,000 LAK ($1 USD) is required to access the summit.

Night Market

Every evening at 5:00 PM, the Night Market springs into action with countless food stalls serving affordable international cuisine, local dishes, and baked goods! Grab a cold beer and peruse the options until your stomach growls in approval. Grilled fish, crispy spring rolls, spicy noodle soups, and vegetable curries are plentiful. Brad and I enjoyed soft buns stuffed with pandan cream and gooey miniature coconut pancakes for dessert. Bon appétit!

Afterwards, shop till you drop along Sisavangvong Road to find one-of-a-kind souvenirs to bring back home. Friendly vendors set up illuminated red and blue tents with handmade items such as clothing, paper lanterns, wooden toys, and jewelry. We purchased artwork, tiny pillows, and a basket during our pass through the energetic corridor!

Even though bargaining is common in Laos, Brad and I didn't participate because we thought everything was already a deal. If you decide to haggle, make an effort to build rapport with a lighthearted conversation, polite smile, and positive attitude. Bring plenty of local currency!

Royal Ballet Theater

My favorite activity in Luang Prabang was watching a cultural performance of the Phra Lak Phra Lam, the Laos version of the Ramayana sacred poem, at the Royal Ballet Theater. The elegant dancers, live music, and intricate costumes took my breath away! Brad and I opted for premium seats, which cost $10 USD per ticket. Shows occur every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday at 6:00 PM.

The story begins with the kidnapping of Princess Sida by the jealous Totsakhan who takes her to Lanka Island. The vulture king Jatayu tells Prince Phra Lam of his beloved's plight, which leads to a battle over the sea between the armies of benevolent monkeys and sinister giants. Totsakhan's demise results in a peaceful reunion for the couple. Themes of loyalty, honor, and love prevail throughout the dynamic production.

UXO Lao Visitor Center

Learning about the devastating and continuous impact of the bombing campaign in Laos by the United States during the Vietnam War was truly heartbreaking at the UXO Lao Visitor Center. Over 270 million bombies (miniature cluster bombs aka UXO) were dropped between 1964-1973.

With an estimated failure rate of 30%, innocent people are at risk with potentially 80 million active bombies across the country. Children often mistake dangerous bombies as rocks and toys, resulting in horrible injuries or death upon interaction. Impoverished families also try to collect bombies to sell the metal scrap for a small profit.

Locating and removing bombies is a painstakingly dangerous task. Brave individuals use metal detectors, GPS surveys, and education to make a difference in the community. Admission is free, but donations are appreciated to help support ongoing efforts.

Traditional Arts & Ethnology Center

Did you know Laos has over 50 distinct ethnic groups with multiple languages, customs, and religious beliefs? The Traditional Arts & Ethnology Center has an impressive collection of domestic textiles, ornate clothing, ritual items, baskets, jewelry, and tools with informative placards to help visitors understand the cultural diversity of the region.

Exhibits, including the importance of fair trade souvenirs and issues of appropriation by the fashion industry, were enlightening. Opening hours are Tuesday-Sunday, 8:00 AM-5:00 PM, and entry is 35,000 LAK ($1.50 USD) per person.

Wat Xieng Thong

Luang Prabang has an abundance of Buddhist temples, but Wat Xieng Thong is the crown jewel. Built in the mid 16th Century, by King Setthathirath, the complex sparkles with hand-painted walls, captivating altars with gilded statues of Buddha, pops of deep red, and brilliant mosaics. The jaw-dropping craftsmanship is magical to behold!

The sim (main prayer hall) is a perfect example of Laos religious architecture. Walk around the exterior to see the Tree of Life made out of glass mosaics and cascading roofs topped with dok so fa (small gilded pagodas). The interior is decorated with whimsical stencils depicting mythological scenes and geometric patterns. Low wooden beams covered in black lacquer enhance the glowing shrine.

Compared to other temples I visited in Southeast Asia, this one felt the most intimate and serene. The design evokes the journey of Enlightenment and how each Buddhist must discover the path for himself/herself through the glittering darkness. Instead of focusing on grandeur and distance, the space brings spirituality within reach.

Surrounding the sim are small chapels and stupas housing ancient statues of Buddha and relics. The Hor Latsalat contains the seven-headed naga (serpent) funerary carriage of three Laos kings, sandalwood urns of the royal family, and Ramayana puppets. The exterior and interior are covered with gilded teakwood panels and mosaics. Wat Xieng Thong is open every day, 8:00 AM-6:00 PM, and tickets cost 20,000 LAK ($1 USD) per person.

Alms Giving Ceremony

The Sai Bat ceremony is an honored Buddhist tradition in Laos culture. Every morning at sunrise, hundreds of devotees silently sit along sidewalks with offerings such as packaged snacks, money, and baskets full of sticky rice. Monks emerge from nearby temples throughout Luang Prabang to receive donations in their alms bowls.

Unfortunately, Brad and I didn't have a peaceful experience on Sakkaline Road due to some disrespectful tourists. I recommend finding a less popular location, such as Kounxoau Road, to observe the ritual. Please keep an appropriate distance, forgo flash photography, dress modestly, and refrain from talking. Although foreigners are welcome to participate, we felt it was more ethical to observe the religious tradition.

Restaurants

In addition to its fantastic Night Market, Luang Prabang has a variety of casual cafés with buttery croissants, restaurants serving international cuisine, and funky cocktail bars. Be sure to try khao soi (rice noodle soup with minced pork tomato sauce), laab (chopped fish salad with lemongrass, herbs, and shallots), and khao je pate (baguette sandwich with paté, vegetables, and chili paste) during your trip. Below are my top picks for a mouthwatering meal!

• Lunch - Khao Soi Noodle Shop is a cozy little spot which usually sells out of its two staples by midday. Sit down at any open seat, mingle with locals, and slurp a generous portion of comforting khao soi. Jazz it up with fresh herbs, zesty lime juice, and dried chili. Savor the fish and coconut laksa with rice noodles and banana blossoms at Khaiphaen. The flavorful bowl was simply sensational!

• Dinner - Carb lovers will enjoy Popolo, an eclectic joint serving Italian food with a twist. Brad and I split the chickpea hummus with pickled vegetables, la raclette wood fired pizza topped with prosciutto, and decadent brownie tiramisu with heavenly cream. Order a round of butterfly pea margaritas at BOUANG Asian Eatery before devouring the lime chicken turmeric burger with fries. The creative menu and cool vibe will kick off your night right!

Kuang Si Waterfall

Journey to Kuang Si Waterfall to experience a refreshing oasis with inviting pools of shallow turquoise water! Soak up the lush environment with a relaxing dip before walking the trail to marvel at the three-tiered waterfall. Don't forget to check out the sanctuary with moon bears rescued from bile farms and the illegal wildlife trade.

Brad and I booked a round-trip shuttle via our hostel for 100,000 LAK ($4.50 USD) per person to reach the park. Tuk tuks also make the trip. I don't recommend riding a moped or bicycle since the busy dirt road is narrow and full of potholes. Kuang Si Waterfall is open every day, 8:00 AM-5:30 PM, and entry is 25,000 LAK ($1.20 USD) per person.

Pak Ou Caves

Cruise along the Mekong River by slow boat to reach the mysterious altars of Pak Ou Caves. Thousands of statues of Buddha in various sizes and positions fill almost every crevice of the two limestone caves. Cobwebs and dust envelope the metal, wooden, ceramic, and gilded figures of the enlightened monk. In addition to prayer, pilgrims use the caves as a place to safeguard broken statues.

Brad and I visited Pak Ou Caves during our two-day voyage with Shompoo Cruise between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang. The company offers a half-day tour with lunch for $35 USD, which I highly recommend if you desire a bit of rustic luxury. Other options include arranging passage with a slow boat directly at the pier near Saffron Coffee or hiring a tuk tuk to Pak Ou and boarding a ferry across to Pak Ou Caves. Opening hours are every day, 8:00 AM-5:00 PM, and tickets cost 20,000 LAK ($1 USD) per person.

Final Thoughts

Luang Prabang took us by surprise in the best way possible! The welcoming locals, delightful attractions, and beautiful culture made us feel at ease. Even though we fit all of the aforementioned activities in three full days, Brad and I regretted not staying at least a week. In hindsight, the laid-back city would've been an ideal location for a month-long visit.

Usually, Laos isn't high on the priority list for many travelers exploring Southeast Asia. Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia are the heavy hitters. Learn from our mistake and budget enough wiggle room to linger in the country, especially Luang Prabang, just in case you also fall in love with its picturesque atmosphere!