Hoi An, Vietnam: A Kaleidoscope of Silk Lanterns

Lanterns, camera, action! Hoi An is a charming snapshot of the past with its traditional mustard-yellow architecture, elaborate temples, and scrumptious cuisine. Wandering the pedestrian-friendly streets of this historical port, active between the 15th and 19th Centuries, is a delightful Vietnamese affair.

After our fiasco in northern Vietnam, Brad and I were uncertain if Hoi An was going to end our travels in Southeast Asia on a high note. Fortunately, it didn't take long for us to become smitten with the picturesque atmosphere, relaxing vibes, and fun activities.

Meeting up with our friend, Carla, made our two-week experience in Hoi An even sweeter. Plus, the city was overflowing with orange kumquat trees, dragon decorations, and bountiful altars for Tet Nguyen Dan (Lunar New Year). Locals and travelers alike reveled in the positive energy!

Below I've included a variety of noteworthy things to do and tasty restaurants to add to your Hoi An itinerary. The best time to visit is during the dry season (February-April). Budget at least three days to discover the dynamic culture and unique heritage. I highly recommend booking a quiet stay at Hoi An Rustic Villa for its comfortable rooms, bikes, pool, and hearty pho breakfast.

Old Town

Exploring the narrow alleyways and rustic buildings of Old Town was a magical highlight. The architecture is a fusion of Chinese, Vietnamese, and French styles dating as far back as the 18th Century. Head to Tran Phu Street to see timber houses, split-level roofs, cozy balconies, shuttered windows, brick façades, columns, and arched entryways.

Although touristy, Hoi An twinkles with overwhelming beauty. Vibrant silk lanterns with ornate patterns sway in the breeze and add an unmatched level of pizazz compared to other Vietnam destinations. Sip a refreshing iced tea made with lemongrass, spices, lime, and lotus petals at Mot Hoi An. The addicting elixir is the perfect way to cool off while enjoying the photogenic scenery.

Be sure to save room in your suitcase for one-of-a-kind souvenirs! Boutiques full of ceramics, artwork, dinnerware, lanterns, wood carvings, propaganda posters, and knickknacks are everywhere you look. Hoi An is especially known for its handmade leather goods and made-to-order tailoring. Carla purchased a custom satchel for her art supplies, which was completed in just two days!

Bargaining is hit or miss and largely depends on the store owner. If you notice a price tag on an item, expect to pay the full amount. You'll have a better chance at a deal if you purchase more than one thing or look like a scruffy backpacker. Brad and I made sure to put our camera away whenever we entered a shop. The Hoi An Central Market is another spot to find treasures in the midst of produce vendors wearing non la (conical hats).

Perhaps the most obvious souvenir to commemorate your travels in Hoi An is a silk lantern! Learn how to make your own by taking a fun class at Tieng Vong Pho Lantern Workshop. The hardest part will be picking out a pattern from the fabric stacks! The step-by-step process was easy to follow with the helpful and enthusiastic instructors. Carla, Brad, and I finished our collapsible masterpieces after three hours.

Stroll along the promenade to see colorful motor boats cruising on the Thu Bon River. Notice the black and white eyes painted on the bows, which protect the owners from evil spirits and provide guidance during inclement weather. Munch on a crunchy banh trang nuong aka Vietnamese pizza (grilled rice paper with dried shrimp, quail eggs, onions, and condiments) while people watching. The area transforms at night with glowing lanterns and row boats. Avoid scammers by booking a ride at an official kiosk with posted prices.

Technically, you need to purchase an entrance ticket (120,000 VND per person) to access Old Town. Enforcement is infrequent, but likely if you visit during a holiday. Each ticket includes admission to five attractions, such as the newly renovated Japanese Bridge. Brad and I used our tickets over multiple days to see a few temples and museums. I highly recommend prioritizing Tan Ky, an oriental house with exquisite artifacts, iridescent mother-of-pearl inlay furniture, and impressive architecture!

The temple/assembly hall of Hoi Quan Phuoc Kien is a showstopper! Potted orchids, mosaic motifs, lion statues, and miniature fountains enhance the grounds. Pass through the pink gate with teal yin-yang roof tiles to access the opulent interior. Whimsical dragons adorn brass incense burners and painted corbels. The main shrine is dedicated to Mazu, the Chinese sea goddess who protects fishermen and sailors.

The majestic dragon fountain in the front courtyard of Hoi Quan Quang Dong dazzles visitors with its bright hues. In Chinese culture, the dragon is a symbol of strength, luck, and prosperity. Proceed into the temple/assembly hall to see altars with offerings, hanging red incense coils, and fantastic murals. The rear courtyard has a quaint garden with several benches ideal for a restful break.

Restaurants

Rally your tastebuds because the Vietnamese food scene in Hoi An guarantees an epic adventure! There are two regional dishes you should try: cao lau (firm rice noodles with slices of roast pork, lettuce, bean sprouts, and fried pork skin in a flavorful sauce) and banh bao banh vac (steamed rose-shaped dumplings with pork, shrimp, and mushrooms topped with crispy shallots). Bon appétit!

• Breakfast - Start your day with the bountiful healthy green smoothie bowl made with avocado, tropical fruit, and homemade granola at Tri Long Coffee. If you need a morning caffeine fix with a touch of sweetness, order a coconut ice cream coffee at Hoi An Roastery.

• Lunch - A trip to Vietnam without eating a banh mi is unthinkable! Chow down on a crunchy baguette with fresh vegetables and BBQ pork at Banh Mi Phuong (one of Anthony Bourdain's favorite spots for the iconic sandwich). Fill up with a satisfying cao lau at Pause and Enjoy Restaurant. The combination of tender pork, chewy noodles, and spicy red chilies was superb!

• Dinner - One of the best meals of my life was the chargrilled fish in banana leaf at Son Hoian. Unwrapping the succulent fillet paired with spicy sauce, sautéed morning glory, and rice was a sensory experience! The crispy banh xeo (rice pancake with vegetables, minced pork, mung bean sprouts, and shrimp) served with chili sauce was a fun appetizer to assemble and share.

• Cocktails - Take your view of Hoi An to new heights with a creative cocktail at one of the many rooftop bars. Try the innovative kumquat gimlet with mint, basil oil, and a lemon sea salt rim at Market Bar. Happy hour is from 4:00-6:00 PM. If tequila or mezcal is more your style, sip a fruity infusion with a xi muoi (sour plum) salt rim at Mezcal Cocteleria. Cheers!

Rice Paddy Fields

Is there anything more picturesque in Vietnam than a farmer tending to his green rice paddy fields while oxen cool off in nearby shallow reservoirs? Nope! Journey by foot, bike, or moped to reach the sizable plots northeast of Old Town. Find a place along the narrow paths to watch nature unfold. The wind creates a peaceful and hypnotic rhythm as it passes through the sparkling blades of grass. Elegant white egrets survey the area to hunt for insects, frogs, and snails. You may never want to leave this dreamy landscape!

An Bang Beach

Escape the city and head to the coast for a relaxing afternoon at An Bang Beach. Before we plopped our butts on the golden sand, Brad and I ate a delicious lunch of rice noodles with sautéed vegetables, hoanh thanh (spicy fried wantons) with shrimp, and mango smoothies at Tan Phat Restaurant. Even though the ocean was a bit too brisk for us to swim, we enjoyed soaking up some Vitamin D with a few cocktails. Keep an eye out for kitesurfers!

Coconut Basket Boat Ride

Expect a crazy ride as you paddle along the nipa coconut groves of Cam Thanh Coconut Village! The star of the famous attraction is the thung chai (basket boat), which was invented during the French colonial era to avoid taxes on standard vessels. Laughter-inducing spins and karaoke are optional, but listening to "Gangnam Style" by PSY on repeat is not! We paid 85,000 VND per person for the popular activity, but prices vary depending on the operator.

Final Thoughts

Basking in the warm glow of Hoi An was the remedy Brad and I needed after our disheartening trip in northern Vietnam. My initial icy opinion of the country melted away once we explored Old Town and its lovely ambience. The enchanting architecture, remarkable temples, mouthwatering meals, and diverse scenery snapped us out of our funk.

Carla's timely arrival also restored our weary spirits. I'll never forget dancing together under the dramatic Tet Nguyen Dan fireworks display, learning how to prepare wonderful Vietnamese dishes at Ms Vy's cooking class, or Brad teaching us how to ride a moped in the rice paddy fields at dusk. However you decide to make memories in Vietnam, Hoi An is a great place to start!