Cusco, Peru: A Vibrant Tapestry of Cultures

Let the picturesque city of Cusco awaken your senses with its serene flute music, whitewashed colonial architecture, flavorful dishes, and ancient stone structures. The woven history of the Inca and Spanish in this spiritual place is evident at every turn. Known as the gateway to Machu Picchu, Cusco is also the ideal launch point for day trips to Humantay Lake, Rainbow Mountain, and the Sacred Valley.

Awe-inspiring vistas, energetic celebrations, and colorful markets bring a wave of wonder to any traveler who seeks a captivating trip. Cusco is one of the most popular destinations in South America and for good reason. Countless hotels, tour companies, and eateries guarantee a satisfying and enriching visit.

Brad and I stayed in Cusco for two months to soak up as much Peruvian culture as possible. The experience was especially memorable because my Dad, Aunt, and Uncle spent a week with us exploring archaeological sites, hiking breathtaking landscapes, and sampling delicious food. Below I share a list of our favorite attractions, restaurants, day trips, and useful tips to help you organize a perfect itinerary!

Centro Histórico

Immerse yourself in the heart of Cusco by walking along the cobblestone streets lined with colonial buildings. Pops of blue and yellow adorn many of the windows and doors. Most of the whitewashed walls feature wrought-iron lights, wooden balconies with elaborate carvings, and flower pots. Notable accents include brass door knockers and Spanish lintels with symbolic motifs.

Keep an eye out for toritos (little ceramic bulls that bring protection, happiness, and fertility to the home) on the terracotta rooftops. Toritos, originating from the Pucará region of Peru, date back to pre-Hispanic times and were initially created to ward off evil spirits. Bulls come in all different sizes and each hue has a specific meaning.

Vintage Volkswagen slug bugs, sleepy stray dogs, statues, and quaint plazas are plentiful. Warm up with a cup of coffee while you peruse the eclectic boutiques full of sterling silver jewelry, luxurious alpaca clothing, and embroidered handbags. Check out Artesanías Asunta if you want to buy an iconic llama sweater or poncho. The lively store has a huge selection of styles and sizes, but also plenty of other souvenirs. Right around the corner is the famous Twelve-angled Stone, a testament to the expert engineering of the Inca Empire.

Plaza de Armas

Make your way to Plaza de Armas (aka Plaza Mayor) to get a sense of the city and do some people-watching. Vendors walk around selling trinkets, paintings, and snacks. The delightful grounds are full of flowers, laughing kids, and wooden benches, but the main highlight is the central fountain depicting Inca Emperor Pachacuti.

Snap a photo with a baby llama, try a fluffy crema de leche dessert, and admire the colonnaded arcades. The plaza creates a romantic ambience at night with warm glowing lights. Partially illuminated residences on the surrounding hillsides sparkle like stars. Hike uphill to the Mirador de San Cristóbal to see the area from an elevated perspective.

Catedral del Cusco

Two impressive Catholic churches, Iglesia de la Companía de Jesús and Catedral Basílica de la Virgen de la Asunción, border Plaza de Armas. The Spanish demolished important Inca buildings in order to construct the imposing places of worship. Both churches require entry tickets and photography is prohibited inside.

Completed in the 17th Century, the Cusco Cathedral has two massive bell towers and a symmetrical façade featuring Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles. The grand interior has ornate gilded altars, colonial paintings, and intricate woodwork. The Last Supper, by Marcos Zapata, depicts indigenous foods, including cuy (guinea pig) and chicha (fermented corn beverage), on the table to signify religious assimilation.

Qorikancha

Another example of Spanish colonialism in Cusco is the partially destroyed Inca temple of Qorikancha, which is now enveloped by the Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo. The Inca used ashlar masonry to construct the exterior rounded wall (visible from the adjacent courtyard) and interior temple dedicated to Inti, the powerful sun god.

The precise stonework withstood earthquakes and has astronomical/ceremonial significance. In 1533, Spanish conquerors captured Inca Emperor Atahualpa and demanded a ransom of gold which was largely collected from the walls of Qorikancha. Artifacts recovered from the site, such as mummies, textiles, and pottery, are located in the nearby underground museum.

Mercado Central de San Pedro

The San Pedro Market is a bustling maze full of delightful souvenirs, fresh produce, made-to-order juices, and hearty fare. Try a few traditional dishes including lomo saltado (beef stir-fry with vegetables, rice, and potatoes), ceviche, and caldo de gallina (chicken soup). On Saturdays, the market overflows onto the surrounding streets with additional vendors selling housewares and snacks.

Weaving around tourists and locals is half the fun as you browse llama keychains, textiles, knit hats, t-shirts, magnets, ponchos, and stone carvings. Bring plenty of cash and don't be afraid to bargain, especially if you buy a lot of goods at one stall. Overall, we only negotiated on expensive items since we thought everything was reasonably priced.

Saqsaywaman

The megaliths of Saqsaywaman are a sight to behold! Built by the Inca Empire during the 15th Century, the citadel features three terrace walls that zigzag along a vast ritual plaza. Boulders were carefully sculpted and interlocked without the use of mortar, which prevented damage during earthquakes. A piece of paper can't even fit between most of the stones!

The baffling engineering is still debated today and unrivaled compared to other archaeological sites in the Americas. The biggest block is estimated to weigh between 120-200 metric tons. Unfortunately, the Spanish pillaged all of the smaller rocks to construct parts of Cusco. Be on the lookout for grazing llamas and alpacas, but remember to keep a respectful distance to avoid a rocket of spit!

San Blas Neighborhood

If you need an escape from the crowds, wander the quiet cobblestone streets of the San Blas Neighborhood. The area has cute shops, creative murals, cafés, and steep stairways with hidden gems. Get lost in thought as you listen to the trickling water of the Sapantiana Aqueduct and admire the padlocks of love attached to the railings by the Mirador de San Blas.

Revel in the bohemian vibes with a hot jasmine tea and creamy lime pie at L'atelier Café Concept. Calle Siete Borreguitos is a narrow alley full of painted flower pots and succulents. The corridor is a popular place for selfies, ice cream cones, and trinkets. Find a bar with a view and toast your adventure in Cusco with a zesty pisco sour or Inca Kola, the national drinks of Peru!

Museo de Arte Precolombino

Enhance your knowledge of the Inca Empire and its material culture with a visit to the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art. Approximately 400 artifacts are on display with bilingual placards describing the symbology and function of each item. Zoomorphic ceramics, jewelry, ceremonial vessels, metal crowns, and carved wooden ancestors showcase the spirituality and creativity of this ancient civilization. A separate exhibition features several Spanish colonial paintings made in Cusco.

Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo

The culture of present-day Peru is equally as vibrant as its Inca and Spanish predecessors. Experience the colorful costumes, energetic dances, and folk songs of each region at the Cusco Center of Native Art. Even though the production is a bit amateur, the musicians and performers put on a unique spectacle. Nightly shows begin at 7:00 PM and seating is first come, first served.

Inca Ruins Hike

Cusco is a natural playground full of extraordinary Inca ruins! Spend a morning or afternoon hiking between four interesting sites. Begin your DIY excursion by taking an Uber or taxi to Tambomachay (created to worship water with canals, aqueducts, and waterfalls). Cross the road over to Puka Pukara (fortress built overlooking a lush valley) before walking south to the Templo de la Luna (temple with animal rock carvings and mysterious rooms). Finish your quest at Q'enqo (temple with narrow paths alongside enormous boulders).

Torito Painting Class

Having trouble finding the perfect torito? No problem! Paint your own during a three-hour studio session at ALMA Arte y Cultura for $35 USD (cash only). Sip a glass of wine and munch on snacks as you decorate a one-of-a-kind torito with Nohelia, a local artist who will help you every step of the way. If you don't have time in Cusco to create a masterpiece, affordable plain toritos are available in the San Pedro Market.

Restaurants

Ready to jumpstart your tastebuds with a culinary journey of organic ingredients, complex flavors, and artistic plates? Peru is known to serve up some of the best cuisine in South America! Indigenous, Spanish, and Asian influences bring a lot of flair to the table. Try the local delicacy, roasted cuy, if you're feeling brave. Below are my top picks for a mouthwatering meal!

• Breakfast - Rise and shine at Qura with a healthy açai bowl topped with fresh fruit, chia seeds, and granola. Pair it with a thick slice of avocado toast with scrambled eggs and smoked trout. If you need a dose of caffeine and chill space to wake up, order a hot matcha with adorable latte art at Black Llama Coffee.

• Lunch - My favorite seafood spot in Cusco, Cevicheria Don Pez Limon, has heaping bowls of tangy fish and shrimp ceviche. Every order comes with a cup of red onion soup, side of salted corn nuts, and shot of leche de tigre (ceviche marinade). The seared trout with carrot purée, wild mushrooms, caviar, and spicy pineapple glaze at Organika Restaurant was a knockout! The cucumber pisco sour was also divine. Crank up the heat with a Phei Loop cocktail and smoky chicken pad thai at TAK THAI. The portions are generous!

• Dinner - Missing out on the exquisite causa acevichada (puréed potatoes topped with ceviche) at Yaku Restaurant would be a tragedy! The creamy ají de gallina (pulled chicken with potatoes in a yellow pepper sauce) was comforting. Sometimes you just need a taste of home with a juicy cheeseburger and crispy fries! Sami's Burgers makes fresh-to-order beef patties and always has a line worth the wait. The spicy maki roll with shrimp tempura, avocado, trout, and sriracha mayo at Yokomo Restaurant satisfied my sushi craving.

• Cocktails - Looking for a downtown nightcap? Rumi Bar has a handcrafted pisco sour that packs a punch of tartness with a tipsy effect. Cozy up in the moody atmosphere of Black Cat Bar with classic and innovative concoctions. The Cat's and Roses cocktail with red cactus fruit, herbal gin, and lime syrup has an aromatic floral twist. Cheers!

Day Trips

Gorgeous scenery, challenging hikes, lovely towns, and Inca marvels await just outside of Cusco! The following day trips are worth the effort if you have room in your itinerary. I highly recommend AB Expeditions to experience Rainbow Mountain and the Sacred Valley. Brad and I hired a private taxi via Intur Peru ($100 USD round-trip) to reach the trailhead of Humantay Lake. We took a colectivo (shared transportation) to Pisac for $2.75 USD round-trip per person. Vans depart at Puputi 28 whenever passengers fill up the seats.

Humantay Lake

A pristine turquoise lagoon below snow-capped mountain peaks awaits your gaze at the end of a difficult ascent. Humantay Lake is a sight for sore eyes, but requires a lot of determination. You may experience the effects of high altitude during the out-and-back route, which has an elevation gain of 549 m (1,800 ft). Brad and I were blown away by the natural beauty, which reminded us of Patagonia. After six miles and three hours, our legs were toast!

Pisac

The delightful town of Pisac is a treasure trove of handicrafts! Brad and I arrived in the morning as vendors were setting up their stalls at the Mercado de Artesanías. Embroidered table runners, ceramics, and inlay jewelry caught our eye. Next, we browsed the Nuevo Mercado Artesanal de Pisac full of kind locals eager for a sale. Although the bountiful markets are the main highlight, Pisac is also a popular hub for backpackers and spiritual retreats.

Fuel up with lunch overlooking the square before taking a taxi up to the citadel entrance of the Inca complex of Pisac. The expansive ruins are full of agricultural terraces, watchtowers, ceremonial buildings, and residences. Friendly llamas and alpacas graze around the structures. Brad and I had a blast hiking along the scenic trail with several Inca ruins back down to Pisac (follow the yellow arrows on the map below).

Rainbow Mountain

The pilgrimage to Rainbow Mountain is a popular tourist activity that requires mental fortitude and resolve, especially during a blizzard! My family and I hiked up to the summit with an elevation of 5,036 m (16,522 ft). Slow and steady was my method of choice due to the slippery trail and thin air. A sunny day helps bring out the various minerals. Hues of yellow (sulphur), green (phyllite), and red (iron) provide a stunning backdrop for alpaca pics!

Sacred Valley

A full-day jaunt around the Sacred Valley is a must-do activity! You'll learn about natural dyes and the weaving process next to a condo full of squeaky guinea pigs in Chinchero, admire the concentric circle terraces of the ancient Inca laboratory in Moray, and taste natural salt from the mines of Maras. The final stop, Ollantaytambo, is a small town surrounded by rocky slopes covered with Inca ruins. Get your camera ready!

Helpful Tips

Cusco sits at an elevation of 3,399 m (11,152 ft) along the Andes Mountain Range. Be sure to allow plenty of time to adjust to the high altitude and drink a lot of water/electrolytes to avoid an emergency. Coca leaves, candy, and tea are useful remedies to combat symptoms. Take it slow the first couple of days and don't be surprised if you find yourself huffing and puffing. The expert staff at Traveler's Medical Clinic O2 Network helped us recover from a scary night of altitude sickness with oxygen, fluids, and medication.

The main Cusco Tourist Ticket is an all-in-one pass to 16 attractions in the Cusco region. Tickets are valid for 10 days and cost 130 PEN ($36 USD). You can purchase tickets at the Cosituc government building or any of the major Inca sites. Payment is cash only and a passport is required. Partial tourist tickets are also available and never sell out.

Typically, the air is dry and nights are chilly so pack accordingly. Wear breathable layers, sunglasses, and sunscreen because the sun is intense. Carry a rain jacket or compact umbrella with you since the weather can be unpredictable. Hiking shoes are ideal for uneven cobblestone streets and rough trails. Bring a pair of earplugs for the city noise and keep a decent distance away from stray dogs.

Toilet paper isn't flushable and sometimes you need to pay a small fee to use the bathroom. Carry some facial tissues and hand sanitizer just in case. Tap water isn't safe to drink and pedestrians don't have the right-of-way. Uber is an affordable and reliable way to get around the city.

Final Thoughts

Cusco is a historical time capsule full of beautiful traditions, incredible landscapes, and delectable cuisine. The Inca understood the powerful magic of this place and honored it with magnificent stone structures. Even after centuries, their legacy still stands despite the Spanish invasion. Many Peruvians in the region still speak Quechua, the language of their ancestors.

Picking up our family at the airport with a homemade sign was a silly way to launch our amazing trip together in Cusco. Brad and I were thrilled to see some familiar faces and share in the awe of this bucket list destination. Travel shakes life up in remarkable ways and creates unforgettable memories, especially with a lighthearted group of gringos!