Buenos Aires, Argentina: A Tango of Cosmopolitan Delights

The seductive city of Buenos Aires sways to a beat unlike any other place in Latin America. Hints of decadence can be seen in the European architecture, tasted in bites of creamy dulce de leche, and felt in the presence of passionate tango dancers. Hold on tight if you venture to this riveting beacon in the heart of Argentina!

Buenos Aires is known as a melting pot of cultures, religions, and ethnicities. During the 19th Century, a massive wave of immigrants from Europe increased the number of porteños (residents) in the city by one million. Asian and Jewish newcomers also prospered by establishing businesses and communities. The diversity of inhabitants led to the formation of a unique dialect, known as Rioplatense Spanish. Don't be surprised if you have trouble understanding the local lingo even if you already know a bit of Spanish!

Brad and I spent three months exploring the various attractions in the five barrios (neighborhoods) of Palermo, Recoleta, San Telmo, El Centro, and La Boca. I highly recommend taking at least a day to visit each one so you can experience the quirky vibes without feeling rushed. Budget plenty of time to wander the colorful streets and partake in afternoon meriendas (coffee breaks with fluffy mini croissants called medialunas or cookies called alfajores).

Below I've organized a helpful list of noteworthy things to do and delicious restaurants to kick off the planning process. A trip to beautiful Buenos Aires will surely sweep you off your feet!

Palermo

The hipster neighborhood of Palermo is a playground for tourists in search of trendy boutiques, live music, and international cuisine. Consider booking a hotel or Airbnb in this spot since it's one of the safest in Buenos Aires. Vendors set up craft stalls on the weekends around Plaza Serrano, which is surrounded by several bars and alleyways with creative murals.

The Carlos Thays Botanical Garden is full of classical statues, manicured paths, and exotic plants. Relax on a bench while admiring the gorgeous roses and plump geese in the Rose Garden, which is in peak bloom during November and December. You'll notice groups of locals sharing maté, the national drink of Argentina, at both gardens. The caffeinated tea infusion is made from leaves of the yerba maté plant and traditionally consumed out of a calabash gourd with a metal bombilla (sieve-like straw).

The Evita Museum is a fantastic place to learn about the life of Eva (Evita) Peron, a cultural icon known for her political activism and philanthropy. She served as the First Lady of Argentina (1946-1952) alongside her husband, President Juan Peron. Her foundation helped orphans, provided scholarships, built homes, and improved hospital conditions. She was also influential in the women's suffrage movement, which succeeded in 1947.

Evita lost her battle with cervical cancer at 33 years old. Her untimely death was mourned for 10 days by millions of Argentines in the streets of Buenos Aires. Thousands of tourists each year pay their respects at her tomb in Recoleta Cemetery. The museum exhibits are full of wonderful artifacts, photographs, clothing, documents, and videos.

Recoleta

Elegant French-style architecture with wrought-iron balconies and cream-colored façades line the streets of Recoleta neighborhood. The most affluent area in Buenos Aires features quaint parks, art galleries, and historical monuments. The main attraction is undoubtably Recoleta Cemetery, a labyrinth of mausoleums bursting with religious iconography and ornate details. Stroll the narrow avenues to discover stained glass windows, metal name plates, and mournful statues.

The National Museum of Fine Arts contains impressive masterpieces from both Argentine and international artists such as Antonio Berni, Emilio Pettoruti, Degas, Toulouse Lautrec, Picasso, Vincent van Gogh, and Rodin. The vast collection spans multiple periods including pre-Colombian, Impressionism, and Modernism. The nearby metallic Floralis Genérica sculpture is worth a look!

Attention all bookworms and architecture enthusiasts! The Ateneo Grand Splendid is a one-of-a-kind bookstore that was a former theater during the 1920s. Peruse the multi-level stacks alongside gilded plaster decor depicting floral motifs and masked faces. The ceiling frescoes, painted by Italian-Argentine artist Nazareno Orlandi, portray an allegory for peace after World War I.

San Telmo

The gritty neighborhood of San Telmo is full of character and charm. A balanced mix of locals and tourists flock to the area to unwind, eat, and shop. Snap a picture with the stocky Mafalda statues, which commemorate Argentina's favorite comic strip. Drink a freshly squeezed orange juice while watching an impromptu tango performance in Plaza Dorrego. Keep an eye out for sketchy individuals looking to steal your belongings, especially cell phones and cameras!

Grab a savory empanada, sip a glass of smooth Malbec, and browse antiques in the San Telmo Market. The indoor space is a great spot to people watch and sample a variety of Argentine dishes such as choripán (grilled chorizo sausage sandwiches with chimichurri sauce). A ceramic pinguino (penguin-shaped wine pitcher) makes a wonderful keepsake!

In Buenos Aires on a Sunday afternoon? You're in for a treat! The San Telmo Sunday Market runs along Defensa Street in between Plaza de Mayo and Plaza Dorrego. Hundreds of artisans set up stalls full of handicrafts, pottery, jewelry, keychains, and clothes. Be on the lookout for eye-catching fileteado signs. This treasure trove of souvenirs is a blast to explore!

A must-do activity in Buenos Aires is attending a tango show. Brad and I purchased VIP tickets for the nightly performance at El Viejo Almacén. Our balcony seats had a perfect view of the talented dancers, musicians, and singers. We were blown away by the spectacular athleticism, dazzling costumes, and friendly service. I highly recommend the entertaining experience, which felt intimate and authentic!

El Centro

History and modernity collide in the bustling neighborhood of El Centro. The major artery of the city, July 9th Avenue, is currently the widest road in the world! Trees with purple flowers line the pedestrian-only medians which converge towards the iconic Obelisk of Buenos Aires. The monument was erected to celebrate the quadricentennial of the city in 1936. Check out the Neoclassical architecture and reliefs of the Colón Theater, which sells tickets for orchestra, ballet, and opera performances all year long.

A multitude of important historic events have taken place at Plaza de Mayo. The picturesque square, named after the 1810 revolution that led to Argentina's independence from Spain, is a popular place for citizens to hold political demonstrations. The Mothers of Plaza de Mayo gather every Thursday afternoon to petition for answers regarding the disappearances of their children under the Argentine Anticommunist Alliance (1974-1983).

The pink hue of Casa Rosada, the presidential palace, sparkles in the sunlight. Arched colonnades, statues, and balustrades form the quasi-symmetrical façade. Stones of remembrance, placed at the base of the General Manuel Belgrano Monument, represent casualties of the COVID-19 pandemic. The changing of the guard takes place every two hours between 7:00 AM-5:00 PM. The ceremony includes seven grenadiers and honors the historical regiments of the Argentine Republic.

La Boca

The eclectic neighborhood of La Boca is guaranteed to spice things up, especially during a Boca Juniors fútbol (soccer) match at La Bombonera Stadium! Reach out to LandingPadBA as soon as possible if you're interested in legitimate tickets, which are always in high demand for non-club members. This pocket in Buenos Aires has a bad reputation at night, so visit during the day via Uber/taxi to avoid any issues. Painters set up mini galleries on the weekends.

The focal point is Caminito Street, a cobblestone pathway with rustic buildings covered in colorful sheet metal. During the late 19th Century, Italian immigrants working at the port used leftover paint to spruce up their communal dwellings. Nowadays, artists and businesses partake in the vibrant atmosphere by enticing tourists with photogenic props, sizzling grills, and kitschy souvenirs.

Restaurants

Argentines love their meat and carbs! Sunday afternoon asados (barbecues) bring together families and friends. If you want a similar experience with the traditional spread, book a reservation at a parrilla (flaming charcoal grill) restaurant. Brad and I often felt local dishes lacked salt, flavor, and spice. After a bit of trial and error, we found some terrific standouts. Below are my top picks for a mouthwatering meal!

• Lunch - The lomo (beef tenderloin) and cheddar canastitas (open empanadas) at Don Diego taste like upscale mouthfuls of Hamburger Helper. Try the best pizza in Buenos Aires by devouring a half-pepperoni, half-fugazzetta at Pizzería Güerrín. Crank up the heat at Nola by ordering the Koreano fried chicken sandwich made with kimchi, jalapeños, and spicy mayo. The healthy vegetarian plates and fruit juices at Artemisia will excite your tastebuds.

• Dinner - The iconic parrilla of Don Julio is worth the splurge for juicy steaks, gooey provoleta (grilled cheese), zesty chimichurri, and seasonal side dishes. For lighter fare, order the tangy kinilaw ceviche made with fresh fish, coconut milk, mango, and herbs at Asian Cantina. Funky flavors meet quality beef at Burger Joint. Try the La Bleu burger topped with portobello mushrooms, arugula, caramelized onions, sun-dried tomatoes, and roquefort. The birria burrito served with beef consommé at Ayguacamole is the ultimate comfort food!

• Desserts - Craving something rich and sweet? Cool down with a few scoops of the dulce de leche gelato at Helados Italia. The tart key lime pie at Casa Telma has a velvety texture and buttery crust. Chocolate lovers will fall head over heels for the sinfully moist layer cake with dulce de leche at La Panera Rosa! The salty vanilla toffee macalado (large macaron filled with ice cream) at Pastelería Labán is incredibly indulgent.

Colonia del Sacramento

The coastal town of Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, is a popular and easy day trip from Buenos Aires! Round-trip ferry tickets can be purchased via Buquebus or Colonia Express. Step back in time by wandering the cobblestone streets full of Portuguese colonial architecture, lush bougainvilleas, and al fresco restaurants. Be sure to toast your getaway with a glass of bold Tannat!

Final Thoughts

Buenos Aires is a whirlwind of sensory experiences. Each barrio offers something special to discover and appreciate. The bohemian allure of Palermo, posh air of Recoleta, imperfect beauty of San Telmo, dynamic evolution of El Centro, and bold revelry of La Boca blend together to create a memorable trip.

The capital of Argentina is also an ideal base to visit neighboring Uruguay and Iguazú Falls, the largest waterfall system in the world. No matter how you decide to plan your itinerary, magic awaits in Buenos Aires!